Sunday, April 29, 2007

DOG MOUNTAIN & HERMAN CREEK/GORTON CR

This week's hikes included a quick jaunt up the Augsperger trail on Dog Mountain and a Sunday hike on the Herman Creek/Gorton Creek trails to the 2200 foot level.

Winds on Dog Mountain were a bit fierce last Thursday and on the north side of the meadows, spring is just becoming evident. Opting for lunch and a quick retreat back down the mountain, we did not see the south slope where wildflowers were probably more abundant. However, the yellow bells were prominent, along with a few yellow glacier lilies, some paint brush, chocolate lilies and calypso orchids on the forested trail.

Today we had a late start on Herman Creek/Gorton Creek trails, on the Oregon side of the gorge just past Cascade Locks, and lunched at the 2200 foot level. Vine Maples are in the very early stages of leafing out and impart a lacy softness to the forest understory, much like an impressionistic painting.

Unusual numbers of the beautifully blue Oregon anenome flower graced the trail, along with yellow Johnnie-jump-ups (stream violets) and more calypso orchids than we've ever seen on this hike.

Herman Creek/Gorton Creek trails are a great way for new hikers to increase stamina as the trails are soft and the elevation change gradual.

Good exercise, much beauty, and the new Asolo boots are becoming more comfortable with each hike. A good day.

The search is still on for a new lighter-weight women's sized backpack. So far, the variety available seems quite limited for technical day packs.

Saturday, April 21, 2007

COYOTE WALL











There are great days on the trail, good days - and then, there was last Friday.

After completing our first hike to Coyote Wall in the Columbia River gorge searching for wildflowers, panoramic vistas and alpine meadows, we have a definite recommendation for those who seek the same: take the "face" trail both directions.

We had decided to hike the entire loop trail below the wall up to graveled Courtney Road, Atwood Road and end on a trail that swings around to the top of Coyote Wall meadows and then down the face.

The first two miles of the lower trail is, to use Al's words, quite serpentine with very slow elevation gain. The trail seems to meander without much focus on direction, and this is the place to study prime examples of poison oak in every size and color. Chocolate lilies, Prairie Star and the lovely blue-flowered Hound's Tongue made good company along the way.

Another mile through a forested area and we were on the graveled Courtney Road which rises to a spectacular view of Mt. Hood, Hood River and the Columbia River gorge. Continuing on Courtney, an Atwood Road sign seemed to point uphill at a junction and after a quarter mile, we decided to backtrack and travel the lower road which did prove to be Atwood. All was going well until we took a southward trail and ended up on a very skinny path traversing the edge of a cliff with an 800' drop. It's the only time in all the years of hiking that we were unnerved. It didn't help much that a few turkey vultures made repeated flybys. Not that we spent any time looking up at them (or anything else), however their shadows on the trail were a bit disconcerting, even as they produced a few nervous laughs.

Okay, so, after what seemed like an hour, we finally broke out onto the top of the meadows with much relief. We were now two hours past our normal early lunch time and numbness had taken over the usual exuberance of reaching a hike summit. Eventually, the views for which we had come overtook the hardships of gravel roads and cliff hanging, and we enjoyed the colorful magnificence before us.

The trip down the face of Coyote Wall is a cascade of ever increasing splendors offering dramatic views of the Columbia River gorge and mountains in all their grandeur. Gentle gorge breezes ripple through the meadow grasslands like water on an incoming tide. Exotic wildflowers meet every glance while the bright blue river and gorge vistas fill all senses.

Coyote Wall is definitely a "must see" experience which we'll do again, but next time the enjoyment will be uninterrupted by taking the face trail both directions.

Although the greater loop hike we took was over nine miles and 2000 feet, for the roundtrip face route our hike book lists the elevation gain at 1520 feet with just 5.8 miles total, a steeper but sure-to-be more enjoyable hike, from our perspective.

For trailhead access information, it's best to consult a hike book guide. Our favorite is William Sullivan's 100 Hikes in Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington (Third Addition). Generally, the Coyote Wall trailhead is east of Hood River, but on the Washington side of the Columbia River at Courtney Road. Be sure not to take the first access trailhead by the cattle chute or you'll be on the long trail we used. Instead, the access requires a 10 minute walk on an old abandoned road strewn with large boulders.

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

TICKS AND POISON OAK



TICKS can be found most anywhere in nature, but are more prevalent in areas such as the eastern section of the Columbia River Gorge. It's impossible to completely avoid these vermin, but if you visit their known haunts, it's best to wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, a hat and use insect repellent containing "deet" or other deterrent. Be sure clothing is light colored for visual detection and wear no clothing that is "nubby". We've been told, and it makes perfect sense, that ticks have difficulty adhering to a "slick" surface, such as nylon hiking pants, so the same may be said for all outerwear.

Apparently ticks do not jump, but are picked up most often as you brush against vegetation or tree branches, thus the instruction you most often hear in "ticky" areas: don't go off trail. It's prudent to be careful about where you set your backpack down during a lunch break.

In a known area of heavy infestation, we like to take along our small, light-weight tripod seats with the "slick" aluminum legs so we're not sitting on the ground. These seats are mentioned in an earlier positing on equipment and clothing.

A quick post-hike "tick check" is a good idea before entering the car, and a thorough search before showering at home, including your hair, is suggested.

Al has had three encounters with ticks and each time was able to extract the insect body intact with a tick removal instrument available at outdoor stores. A practice session with the instrument is in order before heading out. Leaving embedded pieces of the tick in tissue can lead to infection.

Some have suggested smothering the insect with petroleum jelly, but we've also understood this can cause the tick to regurgitate into the tissue - not a good thing. Also, do not pull on the insect as breaking it into pieces makes it more difficult to remove the entire tick, which is the object. Check with a medical provider to obtain more specific medical remedies. In some cases, an antibiotic is prescribed.

POISON OAK

The bane of hikers, poison oak is a source of concern in many areas, but particularly in the more arid part of the gorge. Usually, the plant can be avoided by simply watching for it along the trail. Anytime there are plants with three leaves, stay clear. The foliage colors range from stark green to crimson, so watch for the number of leaves.

A product called "Technu", available at most outdoor stores is helpful if there has been known contact with the plant. It's a form of solvent that is said to remove plant oils from the skin and minimize outbreaks of the itchy rash. We carry the Technu in our car and use after a hike on exposed skin if there is a concern, rinsing with extra water we've left in the car just for this purpose. Directions also indicate it can be used in the shower, applying to contact areas.

After a day of hiking, we remove all our clothes at the front door and immediately wash the garments with regular detergent.

A couple of times, we've been unfortunate enough to develop the poison oak rash and it takes a week or two before it disappears. A dermatologist suggested some time ago that we use an over-the-counter topical gel product called "Itch-x" for the relief of itching, and for us it worked wonders. We note there is a plethora of products advertising on the web for the treatment of poison oak - some of them probably even work.

BEE STINGS

Once or twice in the last fifteen years, we've encountered nest of ground bees on a trail with "stinging" results. Obviously, those who are allergic need immediate medical care and should always come prepared for this eventuality, but for those not so severely affected by the stings, we like a product called "Sting-Eze" which seems to act as a numbing agent and relieves the pain quickly. Without doubt, there are numerous other products for this purpose also.

The above information does not represent expert advise or remedies, nor is it comprehensive in any way. It is simply offered as our personal experience and "what works" for us in a very limited context and, perhaps, acts as a "jumping off" point for the uninitiated.

Saturday, April 14, 2007

DOG MOUNTAIN


Get ready for the wildflower extravaganza on Dog Mountain. Usually at its height during the last of May each year, a hike during April will also reward the hardy with early bloomers, too.

The Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area is a unique wildflower haven with innumerable observation vistas and abundant opportunities to get up close and personal with the dazzling beauty of spring.

A favorite point of immersion into the land of wildflowers is Dog Mountain, on the Washington side of the river, with its stunning westerly views of the Columbia River, Wind Mountain and the Oregon gorge cliffs to the south and west.

Although this is definitely a hike, not a walk in the park, the 2950 foot elevation gain and round trip of seven to eight miles (depending upon routes) is worth every step with visual rewards unsurpassed.

Some years produce a real bumper crop of the celebrated Arrowleaf Balsamroot, a ground hugging member of the brilliantly yellow sunflower family for which the gorge is so famous. Usually in late May, millions of these flowers drench the hillsides of Dog Mountain with velvety golden hues laced with spots of intensely blue Larkspur and Lupine, fire-engine red Indian Paint Brush and multitudes of various rainbow-tinted beauties.

Taking the less strenuous but still arduous and slightly longer west side route up Augspurger trail, rather than the much steeper Dog Mountain trail, is the easier way to reach the exposed summit to enjoy the euphoric drama at the top. Most of the hike on Augspurger is through beautifully wooded terrain that finally breaks out into the wide open spaces of awesome vistas.
Although the Augspurger trail is still a steep workout, wildflowers in showcase display are the reward.

Plan on lunch at the top while viewing lavishly colorful meadows and panoramic views of the river and surrounding terrain that will resonate in your mind for days.

Although spring is the peak period of wildflower activity, we've hiked the mountain during all kinds of weather in past years, including a few snow treks, with great enjoyment. One cold winter we found hoarfrost so thick on the trees that it looked like snow.

Winds can sometimes be fierce, so it's best to pay heed to weather reports for the area or simple go with a "so what" attitude and enjoy.

ELEVATION/MILEAGE
Elevation: 2950
Mileage: 7 to 8 miles depending upon route

DIRECTIONS
From Portland take I-84 east to Cascade Locks, crossing the Columbia River via the Bridge of the Gods, a toll bridge, and turn east on Washington State Highway #14. Drive approximately 11 3/4 miles to a huge graveled turnout parking area on the let.

TIPS
Watch for poison oak, particularly in the lower areas. Ticks are also presence, as with most of the eastern gorge area hikes. Check the trail map in the parking area to choose a route. If taking the Augspurger trail, go approximately 2.7 miles where the trail intersects with the Dog Mountain trail which goes for about another mile to the top.

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

WILDERNESS HIGHS


Many question the reasons for our absorption with hiking and the wilderness experience. Al encapsulates the feelings with a silent music, reaching to the depths of sensitivity and touching soul in all who tread the trails.

"Getting up on hiking day I'm really energized and excited about the possibility of the total experience. This is what I was born to do, that which is so rewarding to all my sensations. The exercise, spiritual connection and moments of silent stillness allow even the commonly missed sounds of wilderness as they awaken those senses so dormant elsewhere."

"There is a certain effortlessness in walking through a forest when one is so consumed by the many connections from beginning to end. After eighteen years of hiking, those wonderful senses continue to grow more deeply profound.

"I look upon the forest as a place of peace where one can be free of human defined stresses. One can see, hear, smell and touch all the simple beauty of balance that has taken perhaps millions of years to develop into this orchestration of delicate strength and massive quietness. Each living part of the wilderness has an important function, very necessary for the continuing health of the whole. I never cease to be enthralled by the beauty of even the smallest flower or the wonder of a huge and health old growth tree."


TREASURES OF THE FOREST

It's the unexpected, the surprises and newness in each unfolding hike that without notice leaves you breathless and exhilarated. Like the time we were returning from a summer hike on Herman Creek in the gorge and stood in frozen awe while a small group of elk, silently and in single file, made their way through the brushy forest in a canyon just below our trail. I don't think either Al or I breathed during the entire five minutes of this amazing spectacle.

Another time while driving back roads around Mt. Adams in Washington State on the way to a trailhead, a huge male elk with a massive rack of horns bounded across the road in front of us. Leaping quickly to the opposing bank, he then stood motionless, glaring down upon us with a look of defiance as if to challenge our intrusion into his wild domain. Indeed, we had trespassed and were sternly chastised for doing so - an unforgettable moment. On the same day, we encountered a black bear that couldn't get to a nearby tree fast enough, but presented quite a sight loping along through the woods parallel to the road.

Wildflowers are anticipated, but the particular species found can be surprising. Blooming begins in early March and continues through the summer at higher elevations creating an "eternal spring" through the warm months. The flowers we see in lowland forest areas in March can still be found in summer at higher levels just as the snowmelt begins. We greet these lovely treasures of the forest, meadow and alpine ridges as old friends each year, and rave at the seemingly infinite number of species that are new to us each season. In the Columbia River gorge and mountain areas in the Cascades, numerous species are endemic, occurring nowhere else in the world.

A favorite early spring delight is to find our first calypso orchid of the year. This tiny, delicately fragile and unbelievably elegant species is so representative of the incongruence found the the vastly harsh forest environment. That this fairy like orchid can survive in such surroundings seems largely incomprehensible.

Bird species also vary according to elevation, diversity of habitat and time of year. We love each season to watch the nutcrackers on the flanks of Mt. Hood and, deep in the forest, to hear the pileated woodpecker's call and, hopefully, catch a glimpse of the large, secretive and wary bird.

Dippers, grayish/brown robin-sized birds, can be found in the rushing streams of most Pacific Northwest forest swimming underwater for their prey and nesting in the surrounding banks. Their characteristic "dipping" action is seen frequently as they hop about the rocks, in and out of the water.

Each spring, the first melodic calls from swainsons thrushes bring a rush of delight as they whistle their rapturous and metallic songs through the forest canopy.

Ospreys migrate to the Pacific Northwest and can reliably be seen nesting on river markers jutting up from the Columbia River in the gorge. Often it is seen flying overhead with a firm grasp on a small silver fish positioned in the osprey's talons with its head facing forward. It seems these birds are also familiar with aerodynamics. Such a regal and welcome guests they are.

We occasionally snowshoe in winter when the mountains are reborn with snow-domed, lofty peaks, and frosty while forests luxuriate in their long gowns of winter. Rabbit tracks and imprints of other light-footed creatures of the forest floor imprint an untouched, early morning mantle of fluffy new snow - such quiet elegance.

Seasons change familiar trails to another dimension of imagery, altering the landscape from bright spring and summer wildflowers to blazing autumn hues, blueberry meadows, and numerous species of showy mushrooms.

Our wilderness is a landscape photographer's paradise. Hiking along the trail, a composition will suddenly appear and literally "stop you in your tracks" with its stunning perfection and incredible beauty. To not have a camera at hand during those encounters is painful. To capture the moment is bliss.

This material is copyrighted by the blog authors and may not be reproduced or used in any manner without express written permission by the authors.

Saturday, April 7, 2007

NEW EQUIPMENT


A need to replace Al's leaking hydration system ended in the replacement of two other pieces of equipment this last week with updated features that seem worthy of passing on.

No sooner had our earlier blog been published on the constant evolution and innovation of backpacks and other equipment, than an email arrived from REI indicating 80% of their backpacks had been redesigned, and full sized backpacks were now weighing in at around 2 1/2 lbs. Wow! What an attention getter for the thirsty! Weight being a top priority for us, particularly as we age, the advertisement begged investigation.

To Al's delight, an Osprey Stratos 24 was a marvel at 2 1/2 pounds. An air space created with a mesh suspension support system and super light-weight internal frame was totally comfortable and would provide for air circulation between the pack and shoulders with less heat buildup. You'll recognize him on the trails now - the one with an ear-to-ear smile.

Unfortunately, this particular Osprey model is not available in women's sizes, but I'm also now in pursuit of a lighter weight pack with the new suspension system. However, a quick trip to the boot department netted an improvement in boot weight for me. I've worn Montrail leather boots for many years with great comfort, but they are a bit on the heavy side. Asolo brand boots were on sale with an eye-catching price and about half the weight of my three-year-old Montrails.

Yesterday, we did a test run with our new acquisitions up Angel's Rest in the gorge and were delighted with the performances. It's just incredible how much difference weight makes; quicker paces and more comfort, hard to beat.

Bleeding hearts were heavily represented yesterday, with a smattering of corydalis and maturing purple-colored trilliums. Looks like the immerging crop of larkspur will be abundant this year - such a dazzling color of purple-blue.

We hoping to hit the eastern gorge wildflower slopes next week unless we're rained out. It's time for another look at Catherine Creek and, hopefully, to do our first hike up Coyote Wall.

Thursday, April 5, 2007

ABORTED HIKE April 5th

For safety reasons, my non-hiking older sister keeps track of our comings and goings on hikes. We always let her know where we're hiking and check in when we're back. Today, we had intended and actually started to hike the Herman Creek Trail to Indian Point in the Columbia River gorge, but a mishap took place that ended the trek. Thinking we'd have a bit of fun with my sister, I called and said that Al's water had broken, we had to abort the hike and were on the way to REI to replace his bladder. There was, seemingly, a stunned silence on the other end of the telephone, whereupon I started to explain what a bladder was. She interrupted with "I know, I read that on your blog". To hear that someone actually had read our blog on clothing and equipment was most heartening.

More later on the shopping trip and losing some additional equipment weight.

Lorna