SALMON BUTTE

Salmon Butte in the Salmon Huckleberry Wilderness area is perhaps Al's favorite hike. The trail is very soft and foot friendly with a gentle grade that offers good elevation gain of either 2100 feet to the first viewpoint or 2850 at the summit. He particularly enjoys a good "forest" hike and Salmon Butte offers a great experience before reaching the exposed and abandoned site of a former fire lookout station.

An early stretch of this trail displays the most extensive blow-down area we've ever seen. So many trees are on the ground, it's amazing there are any left standing. Yet, the residual forest is still so thick that it creates what I whimsically call a "wolf woods", defined as a heavily canopied, very dark forest nearly devoid of light or vegetation. It is a splendidly camouflaged environment in which to move about unseen, surely a good place for a wolf, even though none exist here.

Other segments, most notably in the "slide" areas of steeply graded creeks, show stark evidence of a tumultuously violent past where huge trees were tossed about in nature's game of "pickup sticks". This scene of beautiful chaos contrasts sharply with the absolute quiet and blissful peace of the surrounding forest, that even now is reclaiming and absorbing the scars back into the perfection and serene wholeness of nature.

Winding up the long, lazy switchbacks for about 3.5 miles, a very bright hillside meadow reveals a close-up view of Mount Hood. The beautiful and isolated Salmon Huckleberry Wilderness area spreads out below with sweeping views of green peaks and valleys as far as one can see.

Early in spring, the wild pink rhododendrons are in full bloom, along with tall stalks of elegantly white and slightly scented bear grass flowers, a towering favorite. From this point to the summit (about one mile), the trees and vegetation are shaped by deep winter snows and icy winds, making for some interestingly contorted trees and landscapes as one traverses the ridge to a logging road and uphill for the final ascent. Where the trail intersects the logging road, it might be well to mark the somewhat hidden location for the return trip.

Picking a blue-skied, very clear day for this hike offers tremendous rewards. A number of mountains are visible in three directions, including: Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mt. St. Helens, and Mt. Rainier on the northern horizon. Beautiful Mt. Jefferson graces the southern horizon and with excellent visibility, it is possible to see part of the Three Sisters range in Central Oregon. Not a bad spot for lunch.

ELEVATION / MILEAGE
2850'
8.8 miles RT
Northwest Parking Pass or equivalent required

DIRECTION
Check with the Zig Zag Ranger Station or the Visitors Information Center in Welches for directions and conditions.

MAZAMA TRAIL / MT. HOOD

Typically, we work our way up to the higher elevation hikes on Mt. Hood each year as the snow recedes, starting with Salmon Butte and Burnt Lake. This year, however, winter storms ravaged many mountain areas, washing out a number of roads, trails and bridges which closed access to several of these mid-elevation hikes. As sea-level dwellers in Portland, most of our spring hikes are not higher than 2000-3000 feet. As such, jumping up to 3500' to 6000' was a stretch yesterday on our first Mazama Trail hike on the northwest side of the mountain. Although only 8.4 miles RT with a 2500' overall gain isn't unusual, at 5000-6000' some suffering was involved for us. We really had to earn this hike, but were rewarded in spades with the many mountain splendors.

The first reward waited at the meadows where blueberries were profuse this year - the short, ground-hugging bushes produce a unique tasting, somewhat musky flavored fruit that lingers in memory for months. The season is short but totally sweet.

Approaching the #600 trail at 6000 feet, the oddest mushrooms were present. Like orange and salmon colored footballs with strange dots, they appeared as Alice-in-Wonderland-sized Easter eggs partially hidden throughout the area. Many were clustered together in odd configurations, like tousled oven buns.

Mt. Hood views were quite dramatic, as usual, but this year something was different about it's appearance. The mountain face in past years displayed multiple shades of tans, grays, mauve's and blacks, dotted with the glacial ice fields. This year a rather uniform graphite colored surface covers the entire mountain, looking almost as if it had been dusted with the color. A curious sight, we wondered whether erosion from last year's heavy rains (those which created such havoc with slides and flows) might not be the cause of the newly exposed rock. IF ANYONE KNOWS THE ACTUAL CAUSE OF THIS INTERESTING CHANGE IN APPEARANCE, A COMMENT AT THE END OF TODAY'S BLOG WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. Magical moments still seize the imagination and spirit in the powerful presence of this giant of the sky.

Returning down trail, two chicken-like grouse walked ahead of us for a few minutes before fading silently into the landscape. Usually, we see them in trees or hear only the "hooomp, hooomp" sounds in the spring, but this ground sighting is a first

Piercing blue skies with a few puffy clouds were prevalent throughout the morning and into mid-afternoon. Returning to our car, additional clouds were gathering, but they did not appear threatening. Driving down Lolo Pass Road within a half hour or so, we expected to see the usual full view of Mt. Hood to the east. Instead, the entire mountain was engulfed in dark and ominous looking clouds and totally obscured from view. We all know the weather on peaks can change very quickly and dramatically, but it's always surprising when it occurs this rapidly. A reality check for those of us who might sometimes wonder why we're carrying the additional load of all that "stuff" on a gorgeous day.

TOP SPUR / McNEIL POINT / MT. HOOD

Saturday, July 7th, a leisurely stroll up Top Spur Trail, around Bald Mountain and up to the second, level view point netted gorgeous vistas of the mountain, Muddy Fork and the Mt. Hood Wilderness. Wildflowers were at their peak, including the beautiful Mariposa Lilies. The Cascade or Mt. Hood lily was not present and we hope to find it in bloom another time.

If ever there was a designated Chamber of Commerce hike promoting the majestic beauty of Mt. Hood, this should be it. It's definitely my personal favorite on the mountain for a jaw-gaping, nose-to-nose mountain experience looking into the eyes of this giant from close range.

Top Spur trail begins with a sublime hike through old growth forest which is captivating by itself, but rounding Bald Mountain for the first big view of Mount Hood is totally stunning. From this vantage point magnificent flanges, towering ridges and sculpted details of a time-etched geological face fill ones entire field of vision. This trail is a bit "edgy" with breath-catching view of the Muddy Fork far below as it falls away from the Sandy Glacier on the mountain's west side.

If the precipitous drop-offs are a concern, this side trip around Bald Mountain can be bypassed without losing the hikes essence, as a second panorama waits further up the trail.

To continue the McNeil Point hike from Bald Mountain, follow the trail to a fork, taking the unmarked trail to the left, up and over the hill a short distance to the Timberline Trail and turn uphill. The downhill trail will return to the parking area.

At the next plateau, the second panorama bursts into view, offering a series of spectacular sights to woo the senses, then continues to three shallow glacial ponds lined shortly after snow-melt with "old-man-of-the-woods" (Pasque flower) with fuzzy mop heads and, if it's the right year and it's spring, prominent white stalks of delicate bear grass line the ponds.

Past the ponds, the trail winds through more sub alpine forest and open meadows, across several shallow streams glacial runoff and uphill to a vast open meadow which, if you catch the time right, can be the most extensive wildflower show on the mountain. Unfortunately, the meadows have been over-loved and the trail rerouted to allow recovery of the area, but can still be viewed from a ridge when the original trail is rejoined.

At the ridge, a beautiful rock strewn glacial stream is visible below the closest view yet of the ice-carved mountain top. The trail then leads across a snowy glacier and in one mile ends at the McNeil Point stone shelter where, at the 6100 foot level, the views in any direction are overwhelming. It's a lasting experience.

Of particular note while driving to the trailhead was the incredible storm debris, soil erosion and disruption of stream beds on the Sandy River in the aftermath of last winter's severe storm. Some residences along the river banks were stripped of protective trees and landscapes, leaving lots bare and exposed.

Although the trails were cleared of many downed trees, a dozen or so still existed on Top Spur, but required minimal negotiation.

ELEVATION / MILEAGE
The full hike - approx. 2300' and 9 miles

DIRECTIONS
Obtain driving directions from a hiking guide book or stop at the Zig Zag Ranger Station on Highway 26, as the route travels over a number of paved logging roads from Lolo Pass.

TIPS
Black flies are prevalent for the first couple of weeks after snow melt. Check for the Zig Zag Ranger Station.

PASS
Northwest Parking Pass or equivalent is required.

DEVILS REST / ANGELS REST

A purely organic hike to Devils Rest via Angels Rest was enjoyed Thursday in the gorge. A good exercise while awaiting the opening of elusive mountain hikes, the elevation gain is approximately 2450' and about 8 miles roundtrip.

Densely lush foliage crowded the trails, shoulder high in many spots, making one feel truly a part of the landscape. A profusion of delicate Vine Maples mixed with dappled light created an impressionist sense, while huge conifers filled the canopy overhead. A very intimate feeling, indeed.

Butterflies abounded and Al was particularly delighted when one landed on him several times - sweet thing that he is. In past weeks, we've seen a number of species and will be purchasing a good butterfly field guide for identification. These beauteous creatures seem quite busy this time of year. Whether the behavior is mating activity or defense of territories is uncertain.

Of particular note today was the unusually clear air, allowing visibility unseen in most recent times. Pollution has become quite an issue, both environmentally and politically, and with good reason. There are days when we really don't want to venture out into the visible soup. Hopefully, resolution will come before it's too late.

A pileated woodpecker appeared silently and seemingly out of no where on the lower stretches of Angels Rest trail. Often, loud raucous calls will be heard when they're in the area, but not this time. Sightings have been sparse this year. It's always thrilling to watch this huge, colorful bird.

The previous week entailed, in addition to Cape Horn, a quick ascent to Devils Rest via Wahkeena Falls. Spring has been an especially techicolor event this year in the lowlands, and we'll look forward to the burst of mountain flowers in the coming month.

MISC. TRAIL INFORMATION

The trail information from the Forest Service is interesting this year due to extensive storm damage. Today, the FS reports that the Top Spur trail has been cleared of blow-down to Bald Mountain, but there is no report of conditions from there to McNeil Point.

Boulder Ridge trail is indicated as open, but no reports yet on condition of blow-downs.

Salmon Butte - road washout expected to be repaired in July, although trail can be accessed on foot - no reports on other conditions of trail.

Apparently the bridge to Ramona Falls is also out.

It is reported that the Mt. Hood Information Center near Brightwood at the RV Center will be closing in June. This location has been a mainstay as a hiking group meeting place, trail and weather information assistance, and as a rest stop for longer than we can remember. It will be sadly missed by all.

For those who don't yet have this website, trail information is supposed to be updated as changes occur: www.fs.fed.us/r6/mt.hood.

CAPE HORN - Columbia River Gorge

Last week, we hiked the edgy cliff trails on Cape Horn (Columbia River Gorge) above the river on Washington's north side of the gorge. This year's trip seemed more spectacular than last, but was immensely dulled by the 1 1/2 mile blacktop walk uphill to the temporary parking lot 1/2 mile above Highway #14. Apparently a dispute exists between local property owners and public rights, resulting in a long, hot, hard-surface walk back to the car.

Beyond the hardship, however, is a flat-out gorgeous view hike with several dramatic changes in environments. A temporary trailhead rambles through a glorious, mostly deciduous forest with scattered evergreens. Surrounded by bird song of numerous species, it seemed we were walking through a virtual aviary. The birds were everywhere and wonderfully loud.

With melodic sounds reverberating through our heads, we finally emerged onto a gravel country road and into the meadows at the top of our elevation gain. Now into a tranquil rural scene, our directions led us down hill between two farms, through wildflowers and tall grass past the house which has recently been purchased by The Friends of the Gorge. According to their literature, the house will become part of a designated park in the gorge. We can hardly wait.

Past the house, we enter another delightful deciduous forest that stops at Highway #14. Immediately across the highway, another trail takes us through a wooded area before breaking out into some pretty fantastic wide views of the river and gorge area to the east. Some view points seem almost like a cruise experience. Wildflowers cling to the pillar type rock formations leaning against the cliff, from waterline all the way to the top. Our lunch spot would equal the Riviera's best - and no one else was around. Bliss!

Properly tranquilized by the sun and lapping sounds at water's edge, we continued on through rock switchbacks leading to yet another forest. Large yellow monkey flowers greeted us along the way to a waterfall. Although not the prime time for this particular waterfall, it was still dramatic as we passed behind the falling spray of water and began our final trek to trails end.

Although the asphalt return was unpleasant, the hike is over the top in beauty and sensations and a return will be made when the new parking area has been completed on Highway 14.

UPDATES

Weather, work and storm damage has kept us off the trails we so love this time of year, and the blog has suffered.

By now, in previous years, we would already have hiked up Salmon Butte, Central Salmon River and Burnt Lake to the Zig Zag overlook while looking forward to the annual McNeil Point hike. However, storm damage from the winter has taken part of the road out on the Salmon River Road, zapping two hikes, and a bridge is down to Burnt Lake trailhead. Reportedly, the repairs will not be made until July. It's been a tough year in the wilderness areas.

Mostly, we've stayed in the gorge with numerous treks up Wahkeena Falls, Angels Rest and Dog mountain to keep the exercise level up. The wildflowers have been exceptional this spring, along with the jungle-like growth of succulent vegetation. Today, on Angels Rest, we found an abundance of tiger lilies and columbines, wild strawberries almost ripe, and were serenaded throughout the hike with the delightful melodies of numerous birds. Not a bad way to spend Sunday morning.

Tuesday, we'll make our first trip this year to Cape Horn on the Washington side of the gorge. Our weather is to improve this week and open up a number of good options until we're able to hike the mountain.