NEW HIKERS EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING

Check out our post dated March 14, 2007 for tips on hiking equipment and clothing purchases for beginners.

ROWENA PLATEAU & TOM MCCALL POINT

A celebration of spring awaits at the Rowena Plateau and Tom McCall Point areas of the eastern Columbia River Gorge. The month of May is prime show time for this yearly extravaganza of wildflowers and mesmerizing vistas. It shouldn't be missed.

For casual strollers, the lower 2.2 round-trip lower trail visits two beautiful ponds, each an independent ecosystem displaying lily pads, puffy cattails, nesting red-winged blackbirds and meadowlarks who fill the air with melodious sounds of rebirth. Each pond is encircled by its own artfully evolved native trees and thick, fragrantly blooming bushes to create miniature oases of serious beauty.

Earlier this week, several varieties of the immensely pungent desert parsley appeared in great profusion. Arrow-leaf balsamroot, that dazzlingly yellow, show-stealing member of the sunflower family, was displaying it's stuff by carpeting the surrounding plateaus and slopes as far as one could see. Just starting to emerge were the luminous purple lupines and, a surprise, fire-engine red paint brushes were clumped together in several areas on the early stretch of the upper trail.

We thought the poison oak seemed rather subdued this year compared to previous years, much to our delight. Although spring is prime time for ticks, we luckily encountered none this year.

The upper trail was steeper than I remembered from last year, but, at least, the length stayed the same at 3.4 miles round trip. Dramatic views of the valley and deep, flower-dotted canyons sloping into the sparkling blue Columbia River were evident with each step. Truly a natural marvel, the gorge is the place to be this spring.

Suggested jumping off point: Traveling from Portland on I-84 east, exit at the town of Moiser (the next town east of Hood River) and take Highway 30 (a bucolic trip in itself) through flower- strewn hills for about 7 miles to the Rowena parking lot and trails. Be sure to take your own lunch, water and snacks, since no tourist facilities mar this wonder of the world.

COYOTE WALL WITH CATHERINE CREEK

Sunday, April 13th, found us ambling up Coyote Wall again, but this time with a Mazama leader who traveled a loop trail, of sorts, from near the Coyote Wall summit into the Catherine Creek labyrinth. Richard Getgen seems to know all the deer and turkey trails that make a great hike even more spectacular.

Not only were the wildflowers more plentiful, but two brilliant streams were encountered. The watery, shushing sounds from one stream filled an entire canyon as we traversed a ridge trail high above, while a chorus of green frogs complemented the air-filled sounds of nature. Oh what a day!

A number of photographers snapped at everything from individual flowers to turkey vultures and a bald eagle, which circled overhead during lunch.

COYOTE WALL - COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE

Having had record snows for this time of year in the mountains and a good dusting down to the Willamette Valley floor, finally, a few dry days emerged and we escaped into the gorge for a hike.



Sometimes, like this one, the effect of visiting the eastern part of the gorge is like traveling to another country for the day. Brilliant blue skies, clear flute tones of resident Meadow Larks and warm sunlight caressing the new growth of wildflowers, literally transports ones senses into a state of nirvana. Yo-ho! As a bonus, this day, the low snow levels created amazing spectacles of the mountain flanks and gorge cliffs. Snow caps were virtually everywhere and, of course, the gorge/river views with Mt. Hood anchoring the horizon were totally mind-warping.



Although we "descended" on the face of Coyote Wall last year, this was our first "ascent" on this zig-zagging trail of splendor which sometimes follows a gorgeous little stream cascading down the hill with unexpected mini-waterfalls. What a thrill! Yellow desert parsley prevailed on the lower slopes with a few plants of the endemic, plum-colored Columbia desert parsley. This lower set of switchbacks traverses through amazing natural rock gardens anchored by gnarled oak trees and tinted with the multi-hues of wildflowers.

We've always said that our hikes come with the world's best lunch views, second to none, and this is one of the best, combining all the gorge elements into one setting. Weekends find this a popular hike, but during week days we've encountered no one, having the entire mountain to ourselves - a special treat.

Last year, we did the loop hike around the western side up to the bluff and down the face, getting off on a cliff-side turkey trail that scared the wits out of us and encouraged vulture fly-bys (See blog archives for last year). Memory still served us this year, enabling us to enjoy a relaxed and safer course.

Our hike today was estimated to be somewhat less than 8 miles, with 1700-1900' elevation gain, and can be found in many of the area hike books on sale at REI and local bookstores. Generally, the location is on Highway 14 on the Washington side of the Columbia River, across and north from Hood River with parking at Courtney Road.

Best days are those which are not too hot since the entire hike is exposed to weather.

SNOW, SNOW, GO AWAY

We're frothing a bit with the itch of spring and the sight of snow flakes freezing-out our normal late March hikes. Impatience grows daily as early morning temperatures hover in the lower 30's and highs for the day tower into the late 40's. Apparently, this late snow is equalled only by that in 1951. Going forward, however, by the middle of next week temperatures are expected to warm into the late 50's - I believe there is one day forecast at 60 - and we'll be back on the trails again. Freaky year!

CATHERINE CREEK - Columbia River Gorge

Sunday, the 16th, marked the first early-spring trip to Catherine Creek along the shores of a bright, sun-lit Columbia River. Mist coated our windshield leaving Portland, but Hood River stood up to its reputation as the sunshine mecca. Bright blue skies and a dazzling view of Mt. Hood created the ambiance we had hoped for - a brief respite from the monotoned grays of the city.

Mazaman Richard Getgen led this hike through the eastern part of the meadows followed by fourteen enthusiasts. We've been hiking with Richard for the last 15 plus years and always look forward to his informative leadership.

This trip, the vast meadows and canyons were tinted the vibrant purple shade of "grass widows", complemented by early growth of spendidly yellow "desert parsley", and a few samplings of the endemic "Columbia desert parsley" with its plum colored blooms.
At a higher elevation, numerous "hounds tongues" plants were waiting to burst into regal blue.
A few sprinklings of "toothwort" were also found. At lower levels, the "grass widows" were a bit over prime, but at higher levels they were still quite fresh.

Such a treat to enjoy these delightful earthy gifts in the midst of a blissfully enchanting landscape.

*Consult "archives" for full narrative on Catherine Creek.

SALMON BUTTE

Salmon Butte in the Salmon Huckleberry Wilderness area is perhaps Al's favorite hike. The trail is very soft and foot friendly with a gentle grade that offers good elevation gain of either 2100 feet to the first viewpoint or 2850 at the summit. He particularly enjoys a good "forest" hike and Salmon Butte offers a great experience before reaching the exposed and abandoned site of a former fire lookout station.

An early stretch of this trail displays the most extensive blow-down area we've ever seen. So many trees are on the ground, it's amazing there are any left standing. Yet, the residual forest is still so thick that it creates what I whimsically call a "wolf woods", defined as a heavily canopied, very dark forest nearly devoid of light or vegetation. It is a splendidly camouflaged environment in which to move about unseen, surely a good place for a wolf, even though none exist here.

Other segments, most notably in the "slide" areas of steeply graded creeks, show stark evidence of a tumultuously violent past where huge trees were tossed about in nature's game of "pickup sticks". This scene of beautiful chaos contrasts sharply with the absolute quiet and blissful peace of the surrounding forest, that even now is reclaiming and absorbing the scars back into the perfection and serene wholeness of nature.

Winding up the long, lazy switchbacks for about 3.5 miles, a very bright hillside meadow reveals a close-up view of Mount Hood. The beautiful and isolated Salmon Huckleberry Wilderness area spreads out below with sweeping views of green peaks and valleys as far as one can see.

Early in spring, the wild pink rhododendrons are in full bloom, along with tall stalks of elegantly white and slightly scented bear grass flowers, a towering favorite. From this point to the summit (about one mile), the trees and vegetation are shaped by deep winter snows and icy winds, making for some interestingly contorted trees and landscapes as one traverses the ridge to a logging road and uphill for the final ascent. Where the trail intersects the logging road, it might be well to mark the somewhat hidden location for the return trip.

Picking a blue-skied, very clear day for this hike offers tremendous rewards. A number of mountains are visible in three directions, including: Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mt. St. Helens, and Mt. Rainier on the northern horizon. Beautiful Mt. Jefferson graces the southern horizon and with excellent visibility, it is possible to see part of the Three Sisters range in Central Oregon. Not a bad spot for lunch.

ELEVATION / MILEAGE
2850'
8.8 miles RT
Northwest Parking Pass or equivalent required

DIRECTION
Check with the Zig Zag Ranger Station or the Visitors Information Center in Welches for directions and conditions.