Wednesday, April 16, 2008

COYOTE WALL WITH CATHERINE CREEK

Sunday, April 13th, found us ambling up Coyote Wall again, but this time with a Mazama leader who traveled a loop trail, of sorts, from near the Coyote Wall summit into the Catherine Creek labyrinth. Richard Getgen seems to know all the deer and turkey trails that make a great hike even more spectacular.

Not only were the wildflowers more plentiful, but two brilliant streams were encountered. The watery, shushing sounds from one stream filled an entire canyon as we traversed a ridge trail high above, while a chorus of green frogs complemented the air-filled sounds of nature. Oh what a day!

A number of photographers snapped at everything from individual flowers to turkey vultures and a bald eagle, which circled overhead during lunch.

Friday, April 4, 2008

COYOTE WALL - COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE




Having had record snows for this time of year in the mountains and a good dusting down to the Willamette Valley floor, finally, a few dry days emerged and we escaped into the gorge for a hike.



Sometimes, like this one, the effect of visiting the eastern part of the gorge is like traveling to another country for the day. Brilliant blue skies, clear flute tones of resident Meadow Larks and warm sunlight caressing the new growth of wildflowers, literally transports ones senses into a state of nirvana. Yo-ho! As a bonus, this day, the low snow levels created amazing spectacles of the mountain flanks and gorge cliffs. Snow caps were virtually everywhere and, of course, the gorge/river views with Mt. Hood anchoring the horizon were totally mind-warping.



Although we "descended" on the face of Coyote Wall last year, this was our first "ascent" on this zig-zagging trail of splendor which sometimes follows a gorgeous little stream cascading down the hill with unexpected mini-waterfalls. What a thrill! Yellow desert parsley prevailed on the lower slopes with a few plants of the endemic, plum-colored Columbia desert parsley. This lower set of switchbacks traverses through amazing natural rock gardens anchored by gnarled oak trees and tinted with the multi-hues of wildflowers.

We've always said that our hikes come with the world's best lunch views, second to none, and this is one of the best, combining all the gorge elements into one setting. Weekends find this a popular hike, but during week days we've encountered no one, having the entire mountain to ourselves - a special treat.

Last year, we did the loop hike around the western side up to the bluff and down the face, getting off on a cliff-side turkey trail that scared the wits out of us and encouraged vulture fly-bys (See blog archives for last year). Memory still served us this year, enabling us to enjoy a relaxed and safer course.

Our hike today was estimated to be somewhat less than 8 miles, with 1700-1900' elevation gain, and can be found in many of the area hike books on sale at REI and local bookstores. Generally, the location is on Highway 14 on the Washington side of the Columbia River, across and north from Hood River with parking at Courtney Road.

Best days are those which are not too hot since the entire hike is exposed to weather.

Friday, March 28, 2008

SNOW, SNOW, GO AWAY

We're frothing a bit with the itch of spring and the sight of snow flakes freezing-out our normal late March hikes. Impatience grows daily as early morning temperatures hover in the lower 30's and highs for the day tower into the late 40's. Apparently, this late snow is equalled only by that in 1951. Going forward, however, by the middle of next week temperatures are expected to warm into the late 50's - I believe there is one day forecast at 60 - and we'll be back on the trails again. Freaky year!

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

CATHERINE CREEK - Columbia River Gorge

Sunday, the 16th, marked the first early-spring trip to Catherine Creek along the shores of a bright, sun-lit Columbia River. Mist coated our windshield leaving Portland, but Hood River stood up to its reputation as the sunshine mecca. Bright blue skies and a dazzling view of Mt. Hood created the ambiance we had hoped for - a brief respite from the monotoned grays of the city.

Mazaman Richard Getgen led this hike through the eastern part of the meadows followed by fourteen enthusiasts. We've been hiking with Richard for the last 15 plus years and always look forward to his informative leadership.

This trip, the vast meadows and canyons were tinted the vibrant purple shade of "grass widows", complemented by early growth of spendidly yellow "desert parsley", and a few samplings of the endemic "Columbia desert parsley" with its plum colored blooms.
At a higher elevation, numerous "hounds tongues" plants were waiting to burst into regal blue.
A few sprinklings of "toothwort" were also found. At lower levels, the "grass widows" were a bit over prime, but at higher levels they were still quite fresh.

Such a treat to enjoy these delightful earthy gifts in the midst of a blissfully enchanting landscape.

*Consult "archives" for full narrative on Catherine Creek.

Tuesday, September 4, 2007

SALMON BUTTE

Salmon Butte in the Salmon Huckleberry Wilderness area is perhaps Al's favorite hike. The trail is very soft and foot friendly with a gentle grade that offers good elevation gain of either 2100 feet to the first viewpoint or 2850 at the summit. He particularly enjoys a good "forest" hike and Salmon Butte offers a great experience before reaching the exposed and abandoned site of a former fire lookout station.

An early stretch of this trail displays the most extensive blow-down area we've ever seen. So many trees are on the ground, it's amazing there are any left standing. Yet, the residual forest is still so thick that it creates what I whimsically call a "wolf woods", defined as a heavily canopied, very dark forest nearly devoid of light or vegetation. It is a splendidly camouflaged environment in which to move about unseen, surely a good place for a wolf, even though none exist here.

Other segments, most notably in the "slide" areas of steeply graded creeks, show stark evidence of a tumultuously violent past where huge trees were tossed about in nature's game of "pickup sticks". This scene of beautiful chaos contrasts sharply with the absolute quiet and blissful peace of the surrounding forest, that even now is reclaiming and absorbing the scars back into the perfection and serene wholeness of nature.

Winding up the long, lazy switchbacks for about 3.5 miles, a very bright hillside meadow reveals a close-up view of Mount Hood. The beautiful and isolated Salmon Huckleberry Wilderness area spreads out below with sweeping views of green peaks and valleys as far as one can see.

Early in spring, the wild pink rhododendrons are in full bloom, along with tall stalks of elegantly white and slightly scented bear grass flowers, a towering favorite. From this point to the summit (about one mile), the trees and vegetation are shaped by deep winter snows and icy winds, making for some interestingly contorted trees and landscapes as one traverses the ridge to a logging road and uphill for the final ascent. Where the trail intersects the logging road, it might be well to mark the somewhat hidden location for the return trip.

Picking a blue-skied, very clear day for this hike offers tremendous rewards. A number of mountains are visible in three directions, including: Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mt. St. Helens, and Mt. Rainier on the northern horizon. Beautiful Mt. Jefferson graces the southern horizon and with excellent visibility, it is possible to see part of the Three Sisters range in Central Oregon. Not a bad spot for lunch.

ELEVATION / MILEAGE
2850'
8.8 miles RT
Northwest Parking Pass or equivalent required

DIRECTION
Check with the Zig Zag Ranger Station or the Visitors Information Center in Welches for directions and conditions.

Friday, August 24, 2007

MAZAMA TRAIL / MT. HOOD




Typically, we work our way up to the higher elevation hikes on Mt. Hood each year as the snow recedes, starting with Salmon Butte and Burnt Lake. This year, however, winter storms ravaged many mountain areas, washing out a number of roads, trails and bridges which closed access to several of these mid-elevation hikes. As sea-level dwellers in Portland, most of our spring hikes are not higher than 2000-3000 feet. As such, jumping up to 3500' to 6000' was a stretch yesterday on our first Mazama Trail hike on the northwest side of the mountain. Although only 8.4 miles RT with a 2500' overall gain isn't unusual, at 5000-6000' some suffering was involved for us. We really had to earn this hike, but were rewarded in spades with the many mountain splendors.

The first reward waited at the meadows where blueberries were profuse this year - the short, ground-hugging bushes produce a unique tasting, somewhat musky flavored fruit that lingers in memory for months. The season is short but totally sweet.

Approaching the #600 trail at 6000 feet, the oddest mushrooms were present. Like orange and salmon colored footballs with strange dots, they appeared as Alice-in-Wonderland-sized Easter eggs partially hidden throughout the area. Many were clustered together in odd configurations, like tousled oven buns.

Mt. Hood views were quite dramatic, as usual, but this year something was different about it's appearance. The mountain face in past years displayed multiple shades of tans, grays, mauve's and blacks, dotted with the glacial ice fields. This year a rather uniform graphite colored surface covers the entire mountain, looking almost as if it had been dusted with the color. A curious sight, we wondered whether erosion from last year's heavy rains (those which created such havoc with slides and flows) might not be the cause of the newly exposed rock. IF ANYONE KNOWS THE ACTUAL CAUSE OF THIS INTERESTING CHANGE IN APPEARANCE, A COMMENT AT THE END OF TODAY'S BLOG WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. Magical moments still seize the imagination and spirit in the powerful presence of this giant of the sky.
Returning down trail, two chicken-like grouse walked ahead of us for a few minutes before fading silently into the landscape. Usually, we see them in trees or hear only the "hooomp, hooomp" sounds in the spring, but this ground sighting is a first

Piercing blue skies with a few puffy clouds were prevalent throughout the morning and into mid-afternoon. Returning to our car, additional clouds were gathering, but they did not appear threatening. Driving down Lolo Pass Road within a half hour or so, we expected to see the usual full view of Mt. Hood to the east. Instead, the entire mountain was engulfed in dark and ominous looking clouds and totally obscured from view. We all know the weather on peaks can change very quickly and dramatically, but it's always surprising when it occurs this rapidly. A reality check for those of us who might sometimes wonder why we're carrying the additional load of all that "stuff" on a gorgeous day.






















Tuesday, July 10, 2007

TOP SPUR / McNEIL POINT / MT. HOOD







Saturday, July 7th, a leisurely stroll up Top Spur Trail, around Bald Mountain and up to the second, level view point netted gorgeous vistas of the mountain, Muddy Fork and the Mt. Hood Wilderness. Wildflowers were at their peak, including the beautiful Mariposa Lilies. The Cascade or Mt. Hood lily was not present and we hope to find it in bloom another time.

If ever there was a designated Chamber of Commerce hike promoting the majestic beauty of Mt. Hood, this should be it. It's definitely my personal favorite on the mountain for a jaw-gaping, nose-to-nose mountain experience looking into the eyes of this giant from close range.

Top Spur trail begins with a sublime hike through old growth forest which is captivating by itself, but rounding Bald Mountain for the first big view of Mount Hood is totally stunning. From this vantage point magnificent flanges, towering ridges and sculpted details of a time-etched geological face fill ones entire field of vision. This trail is a bit "edgy" with breath-catching view of the Muddy Fork far below as it falls away from the Sandy Glacier on the mountain's west side.

If the precipitous drop-offs are a concern, this side trip around Bald Mountain can be bypassed without losing the hikes essence, as a second panorama waits further up the trail.

To continue the McNeil Point hike from Bald Mountain, follow the trail to a fork, taking the unmarked trail to the left, up and over the hill a short distance to the Timberline Trail and turn uphill. The downhill trail will return to the parking area.

At the next plateau, the second panorama bursts into view, offering a series of spectacular sights to woo the senses, then continues to three shallow glacial ponds lined shortly after snow-melt with "old-man-of-the-woods" (Pasque flower) with fuzzy mop heads and, if it's the right year and it's spring, prominent white stalks of delicate bear grass line the ponds.

Past the ponds, the trail winds through more sub alpine forest and open meadows, across several shallow streams glacial runoff and uphill to a vast open meadow which, if you catch the time right, can be the most extensive wildflower show on the mountain. Unfortunately, the meadows have been over-loved and the trail rerouted to allow recovery of the area, but can still be viewed from a ridge when the original trail is rejoined.

At the ridge, a beautiful rock strewn glacial stream is visible below the closest view yet of the ice-carved mountain top. The trail then leads across a snowy glacier and in one mile ends at the McNeil Point stone shelter where, at the 6100 foot level, the views in any direction are overwhelming. It's a lasting experience.

Of particular note while driving to the trailhead was the incredible storm debris, soil erosion and disruption of stream beds on the Sandy River in the aftermath of last winter's severe storm. Some residences along the river banks were stripped of protective trees and landscapes, leaving lots bare and exposed.

Although the trails were cleared of many downed trees, a dozen or so still existed on Top Spur, but required minimal negotiation.

ELEVATION / MILEAGE
The full hike - approx. 2300' and 9 miles

DIRECTIONS
Obtain driving directions from a hiking guide book or stop at the Zig Zag Ranger Station on Highway 26, as the route travels over a number of paved logging roads from Lolo Pass.

TIPS
Black flies are prevalent for the first couple of weeks after snow melt. Check for the Zig Zag Ranger Station.

PASS
Northwest Parking Pass or equivalent is required.