Salmon Butte in the Salmon Huckleberry Wilderness area is perhaps Al's favorite hike. The trail is very soft and foot friendly with a gentle grade that offers good elevation gain of either 2100 feet to the first viewpoint or 2850 at the summit. He particularly enjoys a good "forest" hike and Salmon Butte offers a great experience before reaching the exposed and abandoned site of a former fire lookout station.
An early stretch of this trail displays the most extensive blow-down area we've ever seen. So many trees are on the ground, it's amazing there are any left standing. Yet, the residual forest is still so thick that it creates what I whimsically call a "wolf woods", defined as a heavily canopied, very dark forest nearly devoid of light or vegetation. It is a splendidly camouflaged environment in which to move about unseen, surely a good place for a wolf, even though none exist here.
Other segments, most notably in the "slide" areas of steeply graded creeks, show stark evidence of a tumultuously violent past where huge trees were tossed about in nature's game of "pickup sticks". This scene of beautiful chaos contrasts sharply with the absolute quiet and blissful peace of the surrounding forest, that even now is reclaiming and absorbing the scars back into the perfection and serene wholeness of nature.
Winding up the long, lazy switchbacks for about 3.5 miles, a very bright hillside meadow reveals a close-up view of Mount Hood. The beautiful and isolated Salmon Huckleberry Wilderness area spreads out below with sweeping views of green peaks and valleys as far as one can see.
Early in spring, the wild pink rhododendrons are in full bloom, along with tall stalks of elegantly white and slightly scented bear grass flowers, a towering favorite. From this point to the summit (about one mile), the trees and vegetation are shaped by deep winter snows and icy winds, making for some interestingly contorted trees and landscapes as one traverses the ridge to a logging road and uphill for the final ascent. Where the trail intersects the logging road, it might be well to mark the somewhat hidden location for the return trip.
Picking a blue-skied, very clear day for this hike offers tremendous rewards. A number of mountains are visible in three directions, including: Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mt. St. Helens, and Mt. Rainier on the northern horizon. Beautiful Mt. Jefferson graces the southern horizon and with excellent visibility, it is possible to see part of the Three Sisters range in Central Oregon. Not a bad spot for lunch.
ELEVATION / MILEAGE
2850'
8.8 miles RT
Northwest Parking Pass or equivalent required
DIRECTION
Check with the Zig Zag Ranger Station or the Visitors Information Center in Welches for directions and conditions.
Tuesday, September 4, 2007
Friday, August 24, 2007
MAZAMA TRAIL / MT. HOOD
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Typically, we work our way up to the higher elevation hikes on Mt. Hood each year as the snow recedes, starting with Salmon Butte and Burnt Lake. This year, however, winter storms ravaged many mountain areas, washing out a number of roads, trails and bridges which closed access to several of these mid-elevation hikes. As sea-level dwellers in Portland, most of our spring hikes are not higher than 2000-3000 feet. As such, jumping up to 3500' to 6000' was a stretch yesterday on our first Mazama Trail hike on the northwest side of the mountain. Although only 8.4 miles RT with a 2500' overall gain isn't unusual, at 5000-6000' some suffering was involved for us. We really had to earn this hike, but were rewarded in spades with the many mountain splendors.
The first reward waited at the meadows where blueberries were profuse this year - the short, ground-hugging bushes produce a unique tasting, somewhat musky flavored fruit that lingers in memory for months. The season is short but totally sweet.
Approaching the #600 trail at 6000 feet, the oddest mushrooms were present. Like orange and salmon colored footballs with strange dots, they appeared as Alice-in-Wonderland-sized Easter eggs partially hidden throughout the area. Many were clustered together in odd configurations, like tousled oven buns.
Mt. Hood views were quite dramatic, as usual, but this year something was different about it's appearance. The mountain face in past years displayed multiple shades of tans, grays, mauve's and blacks, dotted with the glacial ice fields. This year a rather uniform graphite colored surface covers the entire mountain, looking almost as if it had been dusted with the color. A curious sight, we wondered whether erosion from last year's heavy rains (those which created such havoc with slides and flows) might not be the cause of the newly exposed rock. IF ANYONE KNOWS THE ACTUAL CAUSE OF THIS INTERESTING CHANGE IN APPEARANCE, A COMMENT AT THE END OF TODAY'S BLOG WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. Magical moments still seize the imagination and spirit in the powerful presence of this giant of the sky.
Returning down trail, two chicken-like grouse walked ahead of us for a few minutes before fading silently into the landscape. Usually, we see them in trees or hear only the "hooomp, hooomp" sounds in the spring, but this ground sighting is a first
Piercing blue skies with a few puffy clouds were prevalent throughout the morning and into mid-afternoon. Returning to our car, additional clouds were gathering, but they did not appear threatening. Driving down Lolo Pass Road within a half hour or so, we expected to see the usual full view of Mt. Hood to the east. Instead, the entire mountain was engulfed in dark and ominous looking clouds and totally obscured from view. We all know the weather on peaks can change very quickly and dramatically, but it's always surprising when it occurs this rapidly. A reality check for those of us who might sometimes wonder why we're carrying the additional load of all that "stuff" on a gorgeous day.
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
TOP SPUR / McNEIL POINT / MT. HOOD
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Saturday, July 7th, a leisurely stroll up Top Spur Trail, around Bald Mountain and up to the second, level view point netted gorgeous vistas of the mountain, Muddy Fork and the Mt. Hood Wilderness. Wildflowers were at their peak, including the beautiful Mariposa Lilies. The Cascade or Mt. Hood lily was not present and we hope to find it in bloom another time.
If ever there was a designated Chamber of Commerce hike promoting the majestic beauty of Mt. Hood, this should be it. It's definitely my personal favorite on the mountain for a jaw-gaping, nose-to-nose mountain experience looking into the eyes of this giant from close range.
Top Spur trail begins with a sublime hike through old growth forest which is captivating by itself, but rounding Bald Mountain for the first big view of Mount Hood is totally stunning. From this vantage point magnificent flanges, towering ridges and sculpted details of a time-etched geological face fill ones entire field of vision. This trail is a bit "edgy" with breath-catching view of the Muddy Fork far below as it falls away from the Sandy Glacier on the mountain's west side.
If the precipitous drop-offs are a concern, this side trip around Bald Mountain can be bypassed without losing the hikes essence, as a second panorama waits further up the trail.
To continue the McNeil Point hike from Bald Mountain, follow the trail to a fork, taking the unmarked trail to the left, up and over the hill a short distance to the Timberline Trail and turn uphill. The downhill trail will return to the parking area.
At the next plateau, the second panorama bursts into view, offering a series of spectacular sights to woo the senses, then continues to three shallow glacial ponds lined shortly after snow-melt with "old-man-of-the-woods" (Pasque flower) with fuzzy mop heads and, if it's the right year and it's spring, prominent white stalks of delicate bear grass line the ponds.
Past the ponds, the trail winds through more sub alpine forest and open meadows, across several shallow streams glacial runoff and uphill to a vast open meadow which, if you catch the time right, can be the most extensive wildflower show on the mountain. Unfortunately, the meadows have been over-loved and the trail rerouted to allow recovery of the area, but can still be viewed from a ridge when the original trail is rejoined.
At the ridge, a beautiful rock strewn glacial stream is visible below the closest view yet of the ice-carved mountain top. The trail then leads across a snowy glacier and in one mile ends at the McNeil Point stone shelter where, at the 6100 foot level, the views in any direction are overwhelming. It's a lasting experience.
Of particular note while driving to the trailhead was the incredible storm debris, soil erosion and disruption of stream beds on the Sandy River in the aftermath of last winter's severe storm. Some residences along the river banks were stripped of protective trees and landscapes, leaving lots bare and exposed.
Although the trails were cleared of many downed trees, a dozen or so still existed on Top Spur, but required minimal negotiation.
ELEVATION / MILEAGE
The full hike - approx. 2300' and 9 miles
DIRECTIONS
Obtain driving directions from a hiking guide book or stop at the Zig Zag Ranger Station on Highway 26, as the route travels over a number of paved logging roads from Lolo Pass.
TIPS
Black flies are prevalent for the first couple of weeks after snow melt. Check for the Zig Zag Ranger Station.
PASS
Northwest Parking Pass or equivalent is required.
If ever there was a designated Chamber of Commerce hike promoting the majestic beauty of Mt. Hood, this should be it. It's definitely my personal favorite on the mountain for a jaw-gaping, nose-to-nose mountain experience looking into the eyes of this giant from close range.
Top Spur trail begins with a sublime hike through old growth forest which is captivating by itself, but rounding Bald Mountain for the first big view of Mount Hood is totally stunning. From this vantage point magnificent flanges, towering ridges and sculpted details of a time-etched geological face fill ones entire field of vision. This trail is a bit "edgy" with breath-catching view of the Muddy Fork far below as it falls away from the Sandy Glacier on the mountain's west side.
If the precipitous drop-offs are a concern, this side trip around Bald Mountain can be bypassed without losing the hikes essence, as a second panorama waits further up the trail.
To continue the McNeil Point hike from Bald Mountain, follow the trail to a fork, taking the unmarked trail to the left, up and over the hill a short distance to the Timberline Trail and turn uphill. The downhill trail will return to the parking area.
At the next plateau, the second panorama bursts into view, offering a series of spectacular sights to woo the senses, then continues to three shallow glacial ponds lined shortly after snow-melt with "old-man-of-the-woods" (Pasque flower) with fuzzy mop heads and, if it's the right year and it's spring, prominent white stalks of delicate bear grass line the ponds.
Past the ponds, the trail winds through more sub alpine forest and open meadows, across several shallow streams glacial runoff and uphill to a vast open meadow which, if you catch the time right, can be the most extensive wildflower show on the mountain. Unfortunately, the meadows have been over-loved and the trail rerouted to allow recovery of the area, but can still be viewed from a ridge when the original trail is rejoined.
At the ridge, a beautiful rock strewn glacial stream is visible below the closest view yet of the ice-carved mountain top. The trail then leads across a snowy glacier and in one mile ends at the McNeil Point stone shelter where, at the 6100 foot level, the views in any direction are overwhelming. It's a lasting experience.
Of particular note while driving to the trailhead was the incredible storm debris, soil erosion and disruption of stream beds on the Sandy River in the aftermath of last winter's severe storm. Some residences along the river banks were stripped of protective trees and landscapes, leaving lots bare and exposed.
Although the trails were cleared of many downed trees, a dozen or so still existed on Top Spur, but required minimal negotiation.
ELEVATION / MILEAGE
The full hike - approx. 2300' and 9 miles
DIRECTIONS
Obtain driving directions from a hiking guide book or stop at the Zig Zag Ranger Station on Highway 26, as the route travels over a number of paved logging roads from Lolo Pass.
TIPS
Black flies are prevalent for the first couple of weeks after snow melt. Check for the Zig Zag Ranger Station.
PASS
Northwest Parking Pass or equivalent is required.
Friday, June 22, 2007
DEVILS REST / ANGELS REST
A purely organic hike to Devils Rest via Angels Rest was enjoyed Thursday in the gorge. A good exercise while awaiting the opening of elusive mountain hikes, the elevation gain is approximately 2450' and about 8 miles roundtrip.
Densely lush foliage crowded the trails, shoulder high in many spots, making one feel truly a part of the landscape. A profusion of delicate Vine Maples mixed with dappled light created an impressionist sense, while huge conifers filled the canopy overhead. A very intimate feeling, indeed.
Butterflies abounded and Al was particularly delighted when one landed on him several times - sweet thing that he is. In past weeks, we've seen a number of species and will be purchasing a good butterfly field guide for identification. These beauteous creatures seem quite busy this time of year. Whether the behavior is mating activity or defense of territories is uncertain.
Of particular note today was the unusually clear air, allowing visibility unseen in most recent times. Pollution has become quite an issue, both environmentally and politically, and with good reason. There are days when we really don't want to venture out into the visible soup. Hopefully, resolution will come before it's too late.
A pileated woodpecker appeared silently and seemingly out of no where on the lower stretches of Angels Rest trail. Often, loud raucous calls will be heard when they're in the area, but not this time. Sightings have been sparse this year. It's always thrilling to watch this huge, colorful bird.
The previous week entailed, in addition to Cape Horn, a quick ascent to Devils Rest via Wahkeena Falls. Spring has been an especially techicolor event this year in the lowlands, and we'll look forward to the burst of mountain flowers in the coming month.
Densely lush foliage crowded the trails, shoulder high in many spots, making one feel truly a part of the landscape. A profusion of delicate Vine Maples mixed with dappled light created an impressionist sense, while huge conifers filled the canopy overhead. A very intimate feeling, indeed.
Butterflies abounded and Al was particularly delighted when one landed on him several times - sweet thing that he is. In past weeks, we've seen a number of species and will be purchasing a good butterfly field guide for identification. These beauteous creatures seem quite busy this time of year. Whether the behavior is mating activity or defense of territories is uncertain.
Of particular note today was the unusually clear air, allowing visibility unseen in most recent times. Pollution has become quite an issue, both environmentally and politically, and with good reason. There are days when we really don't want to venture out into the visible soup. Hopefully, resolution will come before it's too late.
A pileated woodpecker appeared silently and seemingly out of no where on the lower stretches of Angels Rest trail. Often, loud raucous calls will be heard when they're in the area, but not this time. Sightings have been sparse this year. It's always thrilling to watch this huge, colorful bird.
The previous week entailed, in addition to Cape Horn, a quick ascent to Devils Rest via Wahkeena Falls. Spring has been an especially techicolor event this year in the lowlands, and we'll look forward to the burst of mountain flowers in the coming month.
MISC. TRAIL INFORMATION
The trail information from the Forest Service is interesting this year due to extensive storm damage. Today, the FS reports that the Top Spur trail has been cleared of blow-down to Bald Mountain, but there is no report of conditions from there to McNeil Point.
Boulder Ridge trail is indicated as open, but no reports yet on condition of blow-downs.
Salmon Butte - road washout expected to be repaired in July, although trail can be accessed on foot - no reports on other conditions of trail.
Apparently the bridge to Ramona Falls is also out.
It is reported that the Mt. Hood Information Center near Brightwood at the RV Center will be closing in June. This location has been a mainstay as a hiking group meeting place, trail and weather information assistance, and as a rest stop for longer than we can remember. It will be sadly missed by all.
For those who don't yet have this website, trail information is supposed to be updated as changes occur: www.fs.fed.us/r6/mt.hood.
Boulder Ridge trail is indicated as open, but no reports yet on condition of blow-downs.
Salmon Butte - road washout expected to be repaired in July, although trail can be accessed on foot - no reports on other conditions of trail.
Apparently the bridge to Ramona Falls is also out.
It is reported that the Mt. Hood Information Center near Brightwood at the RV Center will be closing in June. This location has been a mainstay as a hiking group meeting place, trail and weather information assistance, and as a rest stop for longer than we can remember. It will be sadly missed by all.
For those who don't yet have this website, trail information is supposed to be updated as changes occur: www.fs.fed.us/r6/mt.hood.
Sunday, June 17, 2007
CAPE HORN - Columbia River Gorge
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Last week, we hiked the edgy cliff trails on Cape Horn (Columbia River Gorge) above the river on Washington's north side of the gorge. This year's trip seemed more spectacular than last, but was immensely dulled by the 1 1/2 mile blacktop walk uphill to the temporary parking lot 1/2 mile above Highway #14. Apparently a dispute exists between local property owners and public rights, resulting in a long, hot, hard-surface walk back to the car.
Beyond the hardship, however, is a flat-out gorgeous view hike with several dramatic changes in environments. A temporary trailhead rambles through a glorious, mostly deciduous forest with scattered evergreens. Surrounded by bird song of numerous species, it seemed we were walking through a virtual aviary. The birds were everywhere and wonderfully loud.
With melodic sounds reverberating through our heads, we finally emerged onto a gravel country road and into the meadows at the top of our elevation gain. Now into a tranquil rural scene, our directions led us down hill between two farms, through wildflowers and tall grass past the house which has recently been purchased by The Friends of the Gorge. According to their literature, the house will become part of a designated park in the gorge. We can hardly wait.
Past the house, we enter another delightful deciduous forest that stops at Highway #14. Immediately across the highway, another trail takes us through a wooded area before breaking out into some pretty fantastic wide views of the river and gorge area to the east. Some view points seem almost like a cruise experience. Wildflowers cling to the pillar type rock formations leaning against the cliff, from waterline all the way to the top. Our lunch spot would equal the Riviera's best - and no one else was around. Bliss!
Properly tranquilized by the sun and lapping sounds at water's edge, we continued on through rock switchbacks leading to yet another forest. Large yellow monkey flowers greeted us along the way to a waterfall. Although not the prime time for this particular waterfall, it was still dramatic as we passed behind the falling spray of water and began our final trek to trails end.
Although the asphalt return was unpleasant, the hike is over the top in beauty and sensations and a return will be made when the new parking area has been completed on Highway 14.
Beyond the hardship, however, is a flat-out gorgeous view hike with several dramatic changes in environments. A temporary trailhead rambles through a glorious, mostly deciduous forest with scattered evergreens. Surrounded by bird song of numerous species, it seemed we were walking through a virtual aviary. The birds were everywhere and wonderfully loud.
With melodic sounds reverberating through our heads, we finally emerged onto a gravel country road and into the meadows at the top of our elevation gain. Now into a tranquil rural scene, our directions led us down hill between two farms, through wildflowers and tall grass past the house which has recently been purchased by The Friends of the Gorge. According to their literature, the house will become part of a designated park in the gorge. We can hardly wait.
Past the house, we enter another delightful deciduous forest that stops at Highway #14. Immediately across the highway, another trail takes us through a wooded area before breaking out into some pretty fantastic wide views of the river and gorge area to the east. Some view points seem almost like a cruise experience. Wildflowers cling to the pillar type rock formations leaning against the cliff, from waterline all the way to the top. Our lunch spot would equal the Riviera's best - and no one else was around. Bliss!
Properly tranquilized by the sun and lapping sounds at water's edge, we continued on through rock switchbacks leading to yet another forest. Large yellow monkey flowers greeted us along the way to a waterfall. Although not the prime time for this particular waterfall, it was still dramatic as we passed behind the falling spray of water and began our final trek to trails end.
Although the asphalt return was unpleasant, the hike is over the top in beauty and sensations and a return will be made when the new parking area has been completed on Highway 14.
Sunday, June 10, 2007
UPDATES
Weather, work and storm damage has kept us off the trails we so love this time of year, and the blog has suffered.
By now, in previous years, we would already have hiked up Salmon Butte, Central Salmon River and Burnt Lake to the Zig Zag overlook while looking forward to the annual McNeil Point hike. However, storm damage from the winter has taken part of the road out on the Salmon River Road, zapping two hikes, and a bridge is down to Burnt Lake trailhead. Reportedly, the repairs will not be made until July. It's been a tough year in the wilderness areas.
Mostly, we've stayed in the gorge with numerous treks up Wahkeena Falls, Angels Rest and Dog mountain to keep the exercise level up. The wildflowers have been exceptional this spring, along with the jungle-like growth of succulent vegetation. Today, on Angels Rest, we found an abundance of tiger lilies and columbines, wild strawberries almost ripe, and were serenaded throughout the hike with the delightful melodies of numerous birds. Not a bad way to spend Sunday morning.
Tuesday, we'll make our first trip this year to Cape Horn on the Washington side of the gorge. Our weather is to improve this week and open up a number of good options until we're able to hike the mountain.
By now, in previous years, we would already have hiked up Salmon Butte, Central Salmon River and Burnt Lake to the Zig Zag overlook while looking forward to the annual McNeil Point hike. However, storm damage from the winter has taken part of the road out on the Salmon River Road, zapping two hikes, and a bridge is down to Burnt Lake trailhead. Reportedly, the repairs will not be made until July. It's been a tough year in the wilderness areas.
Mostly, we've stayed in the gorge with numerous treks up Wahkeena Falls, Angels Rest and Dog mountain to keep the exercise level up. The wildflowers have been exceptional this spring, along with the jungle-like growth of succulent vegetation. Today, on Angels Rest, we found an abundance of tiger lilies and columbines, wild strawberries almost ripe, and were serenaded throughout the hike with the delightful melodies of numerous birds. Not a bad way to spend Sunday morning.
Tuesday, we'll make our first trip this year to Cape Horn on the Washington side of the gorge. Our weather is to improve this week and open up a number of good options until we're able to hike the mountain.
Sunday, April 29, 2007
DOG MOUNTAIN & HERMAN CREEK/GORTON CR
This week's hikes included a quick jaunt up the Augsperger trail on Dog Mountain and a Sunday hike on the Herman Creek/Gorton Creek trails to the 2200 foot level.
Winds on Dog Mountain were a bit fierce last Thursday and on the north side of the meadows, spring is just becoming evident. Opting for lunch and a quick retreat back down the mountain, we did not see the south slope where wildflowers were probably more abundant. However, the yellow bells were prominent, along with a few yellow glacier lilies, some paint brush, chocolate lilies and calypso orchids on the forested trail.
Today we had a late start on Herman Creek/Gorton Creek trails, on the Oregon side of the gorge just past Cascade Locks, and lunched at the 2200 foot level. Vine Maples are in the very early stages of leafing out and impart a lacy softness to the forest understory, much like an impressionistic painting.
Unusual numbers of the beautifully blue Oregon anenome flower graced the trail, along with yellow Johnnie-jump-ups (stream violets) and more calypso orchids than we've ever seen on this hike.
Herman Creek/Gorton Creek trails are a great way for new hikers to increase stamina as the trails are soft and the elevation change gradual.
Good exercise, much beauty, and the new Asolo boots are becoming more comfortable with each hike. A good day.
The search is still on for a new lighter-weight women's sized backpack. So far, the variety available seems quite limited for technical day packs.
Winds on Dog Mountain were a bit fierce last Thursday and on the north side of the meadows, spring is just becoming evident. Opting for lunch and a quick retreat back down the mountain, we did not see the south slope where wildflowers were probably more abundant. However, the yellow bells were prominent, along with a few yellow glacier lilies, some paint brush, chocolate lilies and calypso orchids on the forested trail.
Today we had a late start on Herman Creek/Gorton Creek trails, on the Oregon side of the gorge just past Cascade Locks, and lunched at the 2200 foot level. Vine Maples are in the very early stages of leafing out and impart a lacy softness to the forest understory, much like an impressionistic painting.
Unusual numbers of the beautifully blue Oregon anenome flower graced the trail, along with yellow Johnnie-jump-ups (stream violets) and more calypso orchids than we've ever seen on this hike.
Herman Creek/Gorton Creek trails are a great way for new hikers to increase stamina as the trails are soft and the elevation change gradual.
Good exercise, much beauty, and the new Asolo boots are becoming more comfortable with each hike. A good day.
The search is still on for a new lighter-weight women's sized backpack. So far, the variety available seems quite limited for technical day packs.
Saturday, April 21, 2007
COYOTE WALL
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There are great days on the trail, good days - and then, there was last Friday.
After completing our first hike to Coyote Wall in the Columbia River gorge searching for wildflowers, panoramic vistas and alpine meadows, we have a definite recommendation for those who seek the same: take the "face" trail both directions.
We had decided to hike the entire loop trail below the wall up to graveled Courtney Road, Atwood Road and end on a trail that swings around to the top of Coyote Wall meadows and then down the face.
The first two miles of the lower trail is, to use Al's words, quite serpentine with very slow elevation gain. The trail seems to meander without much focus on direction, and this is the place to study prime examples of poison oak in every size and color. Chocolate lilies, Prairie Star and the lovely blue-flowered Hound's Tongue made good company along the way.
Another mile through a forested area and we were on the graveled Courtney Road which rises to a spectacular view of Mt. Hood, Hood River and the Columbia River gorge. Continuing on Courtney, an Atwood Road sign seemed to point uphill at a junction and after a quarter mile, we decided to backtrack and travel the lower road which did prove to be Atwood. All was going well until we took a southward trail and ended up on a very skinny path traversing the edge of a cliff with an 800' drop. It's the only time in all the years of hiking that we were unnerved. It didn't help much that a few turkey vultures made repeated flybys. Not that we spent any time looking up at them (or anything else), however their shadows on the trail were a bit disconcerting, even as they produced a few nervous laughs.
Okay, so, after what seemed like an hour, we finally broke out onto the top of the meadows with much relief. We were now two hours past our normal early lunch time and numbness had taken over the usual exuberance of reaching a hike summit. Eventually, the views for which we had come overtook the hardships of gravel roads and cliff hanging, and we enjoyed the colorful magnificence before us.
The trip down the face of Coyote Wall is a cascade of ever increasing splendors offering dramatic views of the Columbia River gorge and mountains in all their grandeur. Gentle gorge breezes ripple through the meadow grasslands like water on an incoming tide. Exotic wildflowers meet every glance while the bright blue river and gorge vistas fill all senses.
Coyote Wall is definitely a "must see" experience which we'll do again, but next time the enjoyment will be uninterrupted by taking the face trail both directions.
Although the greater loop hike we took was over nine miles and 2000 feet, for the roundtrip face route our hike book lists the elevation gain at 1520 feet with just 5.8 miles total, a steeper but sure-to-be more enjoyable hike, from our perspective.
For trailhead access information, it's best to consult a hike book guide. Our favorite is William Sullivan's 100 Hikes in Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington (Third Addition). Generally, the Coyote Wall trailhead is east of Hood River, but on the Washington side of the Columbia River at Courtney Road. Be sure not to take the first access trailhead by the cattle chute or you'll be on the long trail we used. Instead, the access requires a 10 minute walk on an old abandoned road strewn with large boulders.
After completing our first hike to Coyote Wall in the Columbia River gorge searching for wildflowers, panoramic vistas and alpine meadows, we have a definite recommendation for those who seek the same: take the "face" trail both directions.
We had decided to hike the entire loop trail below the wall up to graveled Courtney Road, Atwood Road and end on a trail that swings around to the top of Coyote Wall meadows and then down the face.
The first two miles of the lower trail is, to use Al's words, quite serpentine with very slow elevation gain. The trail seems to meander without much focus on direction, and this is the place to study prime examples of poison oak in every size and color. Chocolate lilies, Prairie Star and the lovely blue-flowered Hound's Tongue made good company along the way.
Another mile through a forested area and we were on the graveled Courtney Road which rises to a spectacular view of Mt. Hood, Hood River and the Columbia River gorge. Continuing on Courtney, an Atwood Road sign seemed to point uphill at a junction and after a quarter mile, we decided to backtrack and travel the lower road which did prove to be Atwood. All was going well until we took a southward trail and ended up on a very skinny path traversing the edge of a cliff with an 800' drop. It's the only time in all the years of hiking that we were unnerved. It didn't help much that a few turkey vultures made repeated flybys. Not that we spent any time looking up at them (or anything else), however their shadows on the trail were a bit disconcerting, even as they produced a few nervous laughs.
Okay, so, after what seemed like an hour, we finally broke out onto the top of the meadows with much relief. We were now two hours past our normal early lunch time and numbness had taken over the usual exuberance of reaching a hike summit. Eventually, the views for which we had come overtook the hardships of gravel roads and cliff hanging, and we enjoyed the colorful magnificence before us.
The trip down the face of Coyote Wall is a cascade of ever increasing splendors offering dramatic views of the Columbia River gorge and mountains in all their grandeur. Gentle gorge breezes ripple through the meadow grasslands like water on an incoming tide. Exotic wildflowers meet every glance while the bright blue river and gorge vistas fill all senses.
Coyote Wall is definitely a "must see" experience which we'll do again, but next time the enjoyment will be uninterrupted by taking the face trail both directions.
Although the greater loop hike we took was over nine miles and 2000 feet, for the roundtrip face route our hike book lists the elevation gain at 1520 feet with just 5.8 miles total, a steeper but sure-to-be more enjoyable hike, from our perspective.
For trailhead access information, it's best to consult a hike book guide. Our favorite is William Sullivan's 100 Hikes in Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington (Third Addition). Generally, the Coyote Wall trailhead is east of Hood River, but on the Washington side of the Columbia River at Courtney Road. Be sure not to take the first access trailhead by the cattle chute or you'll be on the long trail we used. Instead, the access requires a 10 minute walk on an old abandoned road strewn with large boulders.
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
TICKS AND POISON OAK
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TICKS can be found most anywhere in nature, but are more prevalent in areas such as the eastern section of the Columbia River Gorge. It's impossible to completely avoid these vermin, but if you visit their known haunts, it's best to wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, a hat and use insect repellent containing "deet" or other deterrent. Be sure clothing is light colored for visual detection and wear no clothing that is "nubby". We've been told, and it makes perfect sense, that ticks have difficulty adhering to a "slick" surface, such as nylon hiking pants, so the same may be said for all outerwear.
Apparently ticks do not jump, but are picked up most often as you brush against vegetation or tree branches, thus the instruction you most often hear in "ticky" areas: don't go off trail. It's prudent to be careful about where you set your backpack down during a lunch break.
In a known area of heavy infestation, we like to take along our small, light-weight tripod seats with the "slick" aluminum legs so we're not sitting on the ground. These seats are mentioned in an earlier positing on equipment and clothing.
A quick post-hike "tick check" is a good idea before entering the car, and a thorough search before showering at home, including your hair, is suggested.
Al has had three encounters with ticks and each time was able to extract the insect body intact with a tick removal instrument available at outdoor stores. A practice session with the instrument is in order before heading out. Leaving embedded pieces of the tick in tissue can lead to infection.
Some have suggested smothering the insect with petroleum jelly, but we've also understood this can cause the tick to regurgitate into the tissue - not a good thing. Also, do not pull on the insect as breaking it into pieces makes it more difficult to remove the entire tick, which is the object. Check with a medical provider to obtain more specific medical remedies. In some cases, an antibiotic is prescribed.
POISON OAK
The bane of hikers, poison oak is a source of concern in many areas, but particularly in the more arid part of the gorge. Usually, the plant can be avoided by simply watching for it along the trail. Anytime there are plants with three leaves, stay clear. The foliage colors range from stark green to crimson, so watch for the number of leaves.
A product called "Technu", available at most outdoor stores is helpful if there has been known contact with the plant. It's a form of solvent that is said to remove plant oils from the skin and minimize outbreaks of the itchy rash. We carry the Technu in our car and use after a hike on exposed skin if there is a concern, rinsing with extra water we've left in the car just for this purpose. Directions also indicate it can be used in the shower, applying to contact areas.
After a day of hiking, we remove all our clothes at the front door and immediately wash the garments with regular detergent.
A couple of times, we've been unfortunate enough to develop the poison oak rash and it takes a week or two before it disappears. A dermatologist suggested some time ago that we use an over-the-counter topical gel product called "Itch-x" for the relief of itching, and for us it worked wonders. We note there is a plethora of products advertising on the web for the treatment of poison oak - some of them probably even work.
BEE STINGS
Once or twice in the last fifteen years, we've encountered nest of ground bees on a trail with "stinging" results. Obviously, those who are allergic need immediate medical care and should always come prepared for this eventuality, but for those not so severely affected by the stings, we like a product called "Sting-Eze" which seems to act as a numbing agent and relieves the pain quickly. Without doubt, there are numerous other products for this purpose also.
The above information does not represent expert advise or remedies, nor is it comprehensive in any way. It is simply offered as our personal experience and "what works" for us in a very limited context and, perhaps, acts as a "jumping off" point for the uninitiated.
Apparently ticks do not jump, but are picked up most often as you brush against vegetation or tree branches, thus the instruction you most often hear in "ticky" areas: don't go off trail. It's prudent to be careful about where you set your backpack down during a lunch break.
In a known area of heavy infestation, we like to take along our small, light-weight tripod seats with the "slick" aluminum legs so we're not sitting on the ground. These seats are mentioned in an earlier positing on equipment and clothing.
A quick post-hike "tick check" is a good idea before entering the car, and a thorough search before showering at home, including your hair, is suggested.
Al has had three encounters with ticks and each time was able to extract the insect body intact with a tick removal instrument available at outdoor stores. A practice session with the instrument is in order before heading out. Leaving embedded pieces of the tick in tissue can lead to infection.
Some have suggested smothering the insect with petroleum jelly, but we've also understood this can cause the tick to regurgitate into the tissue - not a good thing. Also, do not pull on the insect as breaking it into pieces makes it more difficult to remove the entire tick, which is the object. Check with a medical provider to obtain more specific medical remedies. In some cases, an antibiotic is prescribed.
POISON OAK
The bane of hikers, poison oak is a source of concern in many areas, but particularly in the more arid part of the gorge. Usually, the plant can be avoided by simply watching for it along the trail. Anytime there are plants with three leaves, stay clear. The foliage colors range from stark green to crimson, so watch for the number of leaves.
A product called "Technu", available at most outdoor stores is helpful if there has been known contact with the plant. It's a form of solvent that is said to remove plant oils from the skin and minimize outbreaks of the itchy rash. We carry the Technu in our car and use after a hike on exposed skin if there is a concern, rinsing with extra water we've left in the car just for this purpose. Directions also indicate it can be used in the shower, applying to contact areas.
After a day of hiking, we remove all our clothes at the front door and immediately wash the garments with regular detergent.
A couple of times, we've been unfortunate enough to develop the poison oak rash and it takes a week or two before it disappears. A dermatologist suggested some time ago that we use an over-the-counter topical gel product called "Itch-x" for the relief of itching, and for us it worked wonders. We note there is a plethora of products advertising on the web for the treatment of poison oak - some of them probably even work.
BEE STINGS
Once or twice in the last fifteen years, we've encountered nest of ground bees on a trail with "stinging" results. Obviously, those who are allergic need immediate medical care and should always come prepared for this eventuality, but for those not so severely affected by the stings, we like a product called "Sting-Eze" which seems to act as a numbing agent and relieves the pain quickly. Without doubt, there are numerous other products for this purpose also.
The above information does not represent expert advise or remedies, nor is it comprehensive in any way. It is simply offered as our personal experience and "what works" for us in a very limited context and, perhaps, acts as a "jumping off" point for the uninitiated.
Saturday, April 14, 2007
DOG MOUNTAIN
Get ready for the wildflower extravaganza on Dog Mountain. Usually at its height during the last of May each year, a hike during April will also reward the hardy with early bloomers, too.
The Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area is a unique wildflower haven with innumerable observation vistas and abundant opportunities to get up close and personal with the dazzling beauty of spring.
A favorite point of immersion into the land of wildflowers is Dog Mountain, on the Washington side of the river, with its stunning westerly views of the Columbia River, Wind Mountain and the Oregon gorge cliffs to the south and west.
Although this is definitely a hike, not a walk in the park, the 2950 foot elevation gain and round trip of seven to eight miles (depending upon routes) is worth every step with visual rewards unsurpassed.
Some years produce a real bumper crop of the celebrated Arrowleaf Balsamroot, a ground hugging member of the brilliantly yellow sunflower family for which the gorge is so famous. Usually in late May, millions of these flowers drench the hillsides of Dog Mountain with velvety golden hues laced with spots of intensely blue Larkspur and Lupine, fire-engine red Indian Paint Brush and multitudes of various rainbow-tinted beauties.
Taking the less strenuous but still arduous and slightly longer west side route up Augspurger trail, rather than the much steeper Dog Mountain trail, is the easier way to reach the exposed summit to enjoy the euphoric drama at the top. Most of the hike on Augspurger is through beautifully wooded terrain that finally breaks out into the wide open spaces of awesome vistas.
Although the Augspurger trail is still a steep workout, wildflowers in showcase display are the reward.
Plan on lunch at the top while viewing lavishly colorful meadows and panoramic views of the river and surrounding terrain that will resonate in your mind for days.
Although spring is the peak period of wildflower activity, we've hiked the mountain during all kinds of weather in past years, including a few snow treks, with great enjoyment. One cold winter we found hoarfrost so thick on the trees that it looked like snow.
Winds can sometimes be fierce, so it's best to pay heed to weather reports for the area or simple go with a "so what" attitude and enjoy.
ELEVATION/MILEAGE
Elevation: 2950
Mileage: 7 to 8 miles depending upon route
DIRECTIONS
From Portland take I-84 east to Cascade Locks, crossing the Columbia River via the Bridge of the Gods, a toll bridge, and turn east on Washington State Highway #14. Drive approximately 11 3/4 miles to a huge graveled turnout parking area on the let.
TIPS
Watch for poison oak, particularly in the lower areas. Ticks are also presence, as with most of the eastern gorge area hikes. Check the trail map in the parking area to choose a route. If taking the Augspurger trail, go approximately 2.7 miles where the trail intersects with the Dog Mountain trail which goes for about another mile to the top.
Tuesday, April 10, 2007
WILDERNESS HIGHS
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Many question the reasons for our absorption with hiking and the wilderness experience. Al encapsulates the feelings with a silent music, reaching to the depths of sensitivity and touching soul in all who tread the trails.
"Getting up on hiking day I'm really energized and excited about the possibility of the total experience. This is what I was born to do, that which is so rewarding to all my sensations. The exercise, spiritual connection and moments of silent stillness allow even the commonly missed sounds of wilderness as they awaken those senses so dormant elsewhere."
"There is a certain effortlessness in walking through a forest when one is so consumed by the many connections from beginning to end. After eighteen years of hiking, those wonderful senses continue to grow more deeply profound.
"I look upon the forest as a place of peace where one can be free of human defined stresses. One can see, hear, smell and touch all the simple beauty of balance that has taken perhaps millions of years to develop into this orchestration of delicate strength and massive quietness. Each living part of the wilderness has an important function, very necessary for the continuing health of the whole. I never cease to be enthralled by the beauty of even the smallest flower or the wonder of a huge and health old growth tree."
TREASURES OF THE FOREST
It's the unexpected, the surprises and newness in each unfolding hike that without notice leaves you breathless and exhilarated. Like the time we were returning from a summer hike on Herman Creek in the gorge and stood in frozen awe while a small group of elk, silently and in single file, made their way through the brushy forest in a canyon just below our trail. I don't think either Al or I breathed during the entire five minutes of this amazing spectacle.
Another time while driving back roads around Mt. Adams in Washington State on the way to a trailhead, a huge male elk with a massive rack of horns bounded across the road in front of us. Leaping quickly to the opposing bank, he then stood motionless, glaring down upon us with a look of defiance as if to challenge our intrusion into his wild domain. Indeed, we had trespassed and were sternly chastised for doing so - an unforgettable moment. On the same day, we encountered a black bear that couldn't get to a nearby tree fast enough, but presented quite a sight loping along through the woods parallel to the road.
Wildflowers are anticipated, but the particular species found can be surprising. Blooming begins in early March and continues through the summer at higher elevations creating an "eternal spring" through the warm months. The flowers we see in lowland forest areas in March can still be found in summer at higher levels just as the snowmelt begins. We greet these lovely treasures of the forest, meadow and alpine ridges as old friends each year, and rave at the seemingly infinite number of species that are new to us each season. In the Columbia River gorge and mountain areas in the Cascades, numerous species are endemic, occurring nowhere else in the world.
A favorite early spring delight is to find our first calypso orchid of the year. This tiny, delicately fragile and unbelievably elegant species is so representative of the incongruence found the the vastly harsh forest environment. That this fairy like orchid can survive in such surroundings seems largely incomprehensible.
Bird species also vary according to elevation, diversity of habitat and time of year. We love each season to watch the nutcrackers on the flanks of Mt. Hood and, deep in the forest, to hear the pileated woodpecker's call and, hopefully, catch a glimpse of the large, secretive and wary bird.
Dippers, grayish/brown robin-sized birds, can be found in the rushing streams of most Pacific Northwest forest swimming underwater for their prey and nesting in the surrounding banks. Their characteristic "dipping" action is seen frequently as they hop about the rocks, in and out of the water.
Each spring, the first melodic calls from swainsons thrushes bring a rush of delight as they whistle their rapturous and metallic songs through the forest canopy.
Ospreys migrate to the Pacific Northwest and can reliably be seen nesting on river markers jutting up from the Columbia River in the gorge. Often it is seen flying overhead with a firm grasp on a small silver fish positioned in the osprey's talons with its head facing forward. It seems these birds are also familiar with aerodynamics. Such a regal and welcome guests they are.
We occasionally snowshoe in winter when the mountains are reborn with snow-domed, lofty peaks, and frosty while forests luxuriate in their long gowns of winter. Rabbit tracks and imprints of other light-footed creatures of the forest floor imprint an untouched, early morning mantle of fluffy new snow - such quiet elegance.
Seasons change familiar trails to another dimension of imagery, altering the landscape from bright spring and summer wildflowers to blazing autumn hues, blueberry meadows, and numerous species of showy mushrooms.
Our wilderness is a landscape photographer's paradise. Hiking along the trail, a composition will suddenly appear and literally "stop you in your tracks" with its stunning perfection and incredible beauty. To not have a camera at hand during those encounters is painful. To capture the moment is bliss.
This material is copyrighted by the blog authors and may not be reproduced or used in any manner without express written permission by the authors.
"Getting up on hiking day I'm really energized and excited about the possibility of the total experience. This is what I was born to do, that which is so rewarding to all my sensations. The exercise, spiritual connection and moments of silent stillness allow even the commonly missed sounds of wilderness as they awaken those senses so dormant elsewhere."
"There is a certain effortlessness in walking through a forest when one is so consumed by the many connections from beginning to end. After eighteen years of hiking, those wonderful senses continue to grow more deeply profound.
"I look upon the forest as a place of peace where one can be free of human defined stresses. One can see, hear, smell and touch all the simple beauty of balance that has taken perhaps millions of years to develop into this orchestration of delicate strength and massive quietness. Each living part of the wilderness has an important function, very necessary for the continuing health of the whole. I never cease to be enthralled by the beauty of even the smallest flower or the wonder of a huge and health old growth tree."
TREASURES OF THE FOREST
It's the unexpected, the surprises and newness in each unfolding hike that without notice leaves you breathless and exhilarated. Like the time we were returning from a summer hike on Herman Creek in the gorge and stood in frozen awe while a small group of elk, silently and in single file, made their way through the brushy forest in a canyon just below our trail. I don't think either Al or I breathed during the entire five minutes of this amazing spectacle.
Another time while driving back roads around Mt. Adams in Washington State on the way to a trailhead, a huge male elk with a massive rack of horns bounded across the road in front of us. Leaping quickly to the opposing bank, he then stood motionless, glaring down upon us with a look of defiance as if to challenge our intrusion into his wild domain. Indeed, we had trespassed and were sternly chastised for doing so - an unforgettable moment. On the same day, we encountered a black bear that couldn't get to a nearby tree fast enough, but presented quite a sight loping along through the woods parallel to the road.
Wildflowers are anticipated, but the particular species found can be surprising. Blooming begins in early March and continues through the summer at higher elevations creating an "eternal spring" through the warm months. The flowers we see in lowland forest areas in March can still be found in summer at higher levels just as the snowmelt begins. We greet these lovely treasures of the forest, meadow and alpine ridges as old friends each year, and rave at the seemingly infinite number of species that are new to us each season. In the Columbia River gorge and mountain areas in the Cascades, numerous species are endemic, occurring nowhere else in the world.
A favorite early spring delight is to find our first calypso orchid of the year. This tiny, delicately fragile and unbelievably elegant species is so representative of the incongruence found the the vastly harsh forest environment. That this fairy like orchid can survive in such surroundings seems largely incomprehensible.
Bird species also vary according to elevation, diversity of habitat and time of year. We love each season to watch the nutcrackers on the flanks of Mt. Hood and, deep in the forest, to hear the pileated woodpecker's call and, hopefully, catch a glimpse of the large, secretive and wary bird.
Dippers, grayish/brown robin-sized birds, can be found in the rushing streams of most Pacific Northwest forest swimming underwater for their prey and nesting in the surrounding banks. Their characteristic "dipping" action is seen frequently as they hop about the rocks, in and out of the water.
Each spring, the first melodic calls from swainsons thrushes bring a rush of delight as they whistle their rapturous and metallic songs through the forest canopy.
Ospreys migrate to the Pacific Northwest and can reliably be seen nesting on river markers jutting up from the Columbia River in the gorge. Often it is seen flying overhead with a firm grasp on a small silver fish positioned in the osprey's talons with its head facing forward. It seems these birds are also familiar with aerodynamics. Such a regal and welcome guests they are.
We occasionally snowshoe in winter when the mountains are reborn with snow-domed, lofty peaks, and frosty while forests luxuriate in their long gowns of winter. Rabbit tracks and imprints of other light-footed creatures of the forest floor imprint an untouched, early morning mantle of fluffy new snow - such quiet elegance.
Seasons change familiar trails to another dimension of imagery, altering the landscape from bright spring and summer wildflowers to blazing autumn hues, blueberry meadows, and numerous species of showy mushrooms.
Our wilderness is a landscape photographer's paradise. Hiking along the trail, a composition will suddenly appear and literally "stop you in your tracks" with its stunning perfection and incredible beauty. To not have a camera at hand during those encounters is painful. To capture the moment is bliss.
This material is copyrighted by the blog authors and may not be reproduced or used in any manner without express written permission by the authors.
Saturday, April 7, 2007
NEW EQUIPMENT
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A need to replace Al's leaking hydration system ended in the replacement of two other pieces of equipment this last week with updated features that seem worthy of passing on.
No sooner had our earlier blog been published on the constant evolution and innovation of backpacks and other equipment, than an email arrived from REI indicating 80% of their backpacks had been redesigned, and full sized backpacks were now weighing in at around 2 1/2 lbs. Wow! What an attention getter for the thirsty! Weight being a top priority for us, particularly as we age, the advertisement begged investigation.
To Al's delight, an Osprey Stratos 24 was a marvel at 2 1/2 pounds. An air space created with a mesh suspension support system and super light-weight internal frame was totally comfortable and would provide for air circulation between the pack and shoulders with less heat buildup. You'll recognize him on the trails now - the one with an ear-to-ear smile.
No sooner had our earlier blog been published on the constant evolution and innovation of backpacks and other equipment, than an email arrived from REI indicating 80% of their backpacks had been redesigned, and full sized backpacks were now weighing in at around 2 1/2 lbs. Wow! What an attention getter for the thirsty! Weight being a top priority for us, particularly as we age, the advertisement begged investigation.
To Al's delight, an Osprey Stratos 24 was a marvel at 2 1/2 pounds. An air space created with a mesh suspension support system and super light-weight internal frame was totally comfortable and would provide for air circulation between the pack and shoulders with less heat buildup. You'll recognize him on the trails now - the one with an ear-to-ear smile.
Unfortunately, this particular Osprey model is not available in women's sizes, but I'm also now in pursuit of a lighter weight pack with the new suspension system. However, a quick trip to the boot department netted an improvement in boot weight for me. I've worn Montrail leather boots for many years with great comfort, but they are a bit on the heavy side. Asolo brand boots were on sale with an eye-catching price and about half the weight of my three-year-old Montrails.
Yesterday, we did a test run with our new acquisitions up Angel's Rest in the gorge and were delighted with the performances. It's just incredible how much difference weight makes; quicker paces and more comfort, hard to beat.
Bleeding hearts were heavily represented yesterday, with a smattering of corydalis and maturing purple-colored trilliums. Looks like the immerging crop of larkspur will be abundant this year - such a dazzling color of purple-blue.
We hoping to hit the eastern gorge wildflower slopes next week unless we're rained out. It's time for another look at Catherine Creek and, hopefully, to do our first hike up Coyote Wall.
Thursday, April 5, 2007
ABORTED HIKE April 5th
For safety reasons, my non-hiking older sister keeps track of our comings and goings on hikes. We always let her know where we're hiking and check in when we're back. Today, we had intended and actually started to hike the Herman Creek Trail to Indian Point in the Columbia River gorge, but a mishap took place that ended the trek. Thinking we'd have a bit of fun with my sister, I called and said that Al's water had broken, we had to abort the hike and were on the way to REI to replace his bladder. There was, seemingly, a stunned silence on the other end of the telephone, whereupon I started to explain what a bladder was. She interrupted with "I know, I read that on your blog". To hear that someone actually had read our blog on clothing and equipment was most heartening.
More later on the shopping trip and losing some additional equipment weight.
Lorna
More later on the shopping trip and losing some additional equipment weight.
Lorna
Thursday, March 29, 2007
HAMILTON MOUNTAIN 3/29/07
Although windy, we enjoyed blue skies and gorgeous spring views today on our hike up Hamilton Mountain. From the top, Mt. Adams was gloriously resplendent, as was the tip of Mt. Hood peeping over the southern ridges on the Oregon side. Quite a wonderful sight.
Toothwart was the featured flower of the day, sprinkled throughout the mountain in both white and spring lavender. A sparse representation of trillium was present, along with johhny-jump-ups and quite a good showing of brilliant Oregon gold star. Our delight, however, was finding one small colony of dutchmen's breeches alongside the trail.
We had earlier thought some blooms might be found on Little Hamilton Mountain, but opted out due to the winds.
Toothwart was the featured flower of the day, sprinkled throughout the mountain in both white and spring lavender. A sparse representation of trillium was present, along with johhny-jump-ups and quite a good showing of brilliant Oregon gold star. Our delight, however, was finding one small colony of dutchmen's breeches alongside the trail.
We had earlier thought some blooms might be found on Little Hamilton Mountain, but opted out due to the winds.
Waterfalls are spectacular this time of year, gushing with the winter snowmelt, and Hamilton Mountain's "Rodney" and "Hardy" falls are no exception.
A great day for a hike!
Lorna
A great day for a hike!
Lorna
Wednesday, March 21, 2007
GETTING STARTED II, CLOTHING & EQUIPMENT
New hikers are on the trails with just about every kind (or lack) of clothing and gear imaginable, but if you get serious about hiking, there are some essentials to consider for comfort and safety.
The following list is not to be construed as a complete list of all items a hiker may every need under all circumstances, but contains some basics for typical day hikes, AND a narrative follows the list with explanations and details:
- BACKPACK (Technical)
- HYDRATION SYSTEM
- HIKING BOOTS
- HIKING SOCKS (specifically for hiking)
- HIKING PANTS & SHORTS (breathable)
- LAYERED TOPS FOR WINTER AND SUMMER (Breathable)
- LONG SLEEVED SHIRT (Ventilated - sun and insect protection)
- WATERPROOF SHELL JACKET W/HOOD (breathable
- RAIN PANTS (Waterproof & breathable with FULL side-leg zips)
- HATS for winter and summer
- GLOVES
- GAITERS (Optional, but valuable)
- HIKING/TREKKING POLES
- SO-CALLED "TEN ESSENTIALS" (Listed separately)
- PERSONALIZED CHECKLIST
We've each probably had a dozen or so BACKPACKS over the years. There seems to be a constant evolution of lighter weight fabrics, more efficient space management and innovative designs in backpacks, making new ones pretty irresistible. For year-around hiking, we prefer two different packs and use only those which are adaptable to an internal HYDRATION SYSTEM, a removable bladder fitting inside the pack. Our summer packs are smaller, compact and lighter weight than our larger winter packs which require additional capacity for heavier clothing and other cold-weather items.
There are an increasing number of smaller, technical day packs designed for women that have higher chest straps and shorter torsos. It's definitely something to consider, particularly for women with petite frames. Torso adjustments only go so far.
For those of a serious technical persuasion, specifications on all aspects of backpacks can be found online or in manufacturer's specification handouts available at many outdoor stores that list weights, dimensions, capacities and other useful information.
Personally, I like an internal frame pack that distributes the weight onto the hips, off the shoulders and eliminates uncomfortable pokes from items being carried. The downside is additional weight for the frame, but the comfort is great. Al does just fine with and prefer the lighter weight but firmly padded backs without the rigid frame. He is evidently a better "packer" than I am, since I've rarely heard him complain about being poked.
So much comfort in hiking or lack thereof is due to the fit of a pack, that we highly recommend conferring with an expert at an outdoor store. Ask for a torso measurement so you can match that length to the pack's specifications, and make note of the dimension for future reference. A pack with a torso length that's too long can create severe dysfunction and discomfort.
When a decision has been made on a specific backpack, take it home and pack it with everything you expect to carry, making sure the capacity is sufficient before heading out on the trails.
The so-called "ten essentials" have evolved into a few more items with the advent of the cell phone for emergency use, which is a "must have". Be sure it is fully charged. Again, the following list does not attempt to cover every item a hiker may ever need, but is basic:
- CELL PHONE (fully charged)
- WHISTLE
- EXTRA FOOD & CLOTHING
- SUN PROTECTION
- MAP
- COMPASS
- FLASHLIGHT OR HEADLAMP
- WATERPROOF MATCHES
- FIRE STARTER (candles are one source)
- POCKET KNIFE
- SPACE BLANKET (Our addition)
- EXTRA WATER
- INSECT REPELLENT
Although the lists sound extensive, it's surprising how light weight all of these items can be if you buy with weight as a focus and limit quantities or volumes to that which is needed for a few hikes - not for the balance of your natural life.
For some unknown reason, both Al and I carried far too much weight in our packs until the last few years when we finally decided it wasn't necessary to carry "forty-nine" essentials. Closer to "ten" was a much better number and quite adequate for our needs.
Now, we've reduced weight even further by changing HOW we pack.
Simple ways to lose backpack weight:
- Buy a small, shrill-tones PLASTIC whistle (outdoor store) instead of the heavier metal one.
- Carry only the amount of sun protection, insect repellent and other products needed for one
or two hikes, rather than whole containers.
- Outdoor stores carry tiny plastic, screw-top bottles that can be easily filled with a few days'
supply.
- LED flashlights are lightweight. Headlamps are especially nice.
- Replace original packet containing first aid kit items and replace with small plastic zip-lock bag.
Think about each items you intend to pack and how to lighten the load.
A lightweight umbrella has always been part of our rainy day gear, and Al uses one to lunch under a hot sun. After terrifying a trails horse with an open black umbrella one day, we decided it probably would be good defense against wild animals as well, with the intent to appear as large and formidable as possible.
HATS for sun protection should be of very light-weight material, have a chin strap and allow for maximum ventilation in the crown. Don't consider a wide brim that will catch in the wind. The hat will spend a good part of its life inside the backpack, so its construction needs to be flexible.
BOOTS are critical and although I've had almost no problems with fit or comfort, Al has had more than his share. One of the biggest frustrations for his is that boot manufacturers discontinue styles that fit perfectly and then replace them with ones that don't. So, every time he needs to replace boots, it's a major effort to find those that work. Complicating matters is that feet also seem to "spread out" after years of hiking and need an even wider toe box and possibly a bigger boot size, too.
We prefer waterproof hiking boots for the rainy weather in Oregon. Occasionally slogging through wet marshes or fording a small stream is inevitable on many hikes. Outdoor stores usually have knowledgeable personnel to help with the fit and make recommendations. There are slanted ramps designed specifically to determine whether your toes will hit the front of a particular boot when you're going down hill. Otherwise, they should be comfortably snug, not tight, and provide toe "wiggle" room.
GAITERS are indispensable, from our point of view, for keeping the trail debris out of the boots when wearing shorts. Our pack for the summer months are the short gaiters that just cover boots and socks. We sometimes wear knee-high gaiters during the winter if the trail is muddy or we will be walking through wet vegetation. Gaiters will keep the upper part of your boots from becoming caked with mud and protect pant legs from water.
Hiking SOCKS warrant special consideration. My personal preference is for Thorlo "coolmax" for hot weather and washable "smart wool" for cooler weather. Both these socks are also available specifically in women's sizes. Al prefers the softness of a heavy weight merino wool sock for winter and the same "coolmax" for summer. There is an appreciable difference in foot temperature using the "coolmax". However, hiking socks are an individual preference and a large variety exists from which to choose.
CLOTHING is critical to comfortable hiking and "layering" is essential. It's like "location" in real estate. The big "no" is cotton anything, from our perspective. Once cotton gets wet from perspiration or for whatever reason, it stays wet, plus it can be quite hot during a workout in warm weather. What works is what breathes and wicks moisture from your skin to the outside of the garment where it can evaporate, drying quickly. Outdoor personnel can direct you to the breathable clothing - don't consider anything else.
What has worked extremely well in basic layering for us is Patagonia's Capilene apparel, a synthetic fabric. These garments seem to last forever. We still have original pieces purchase in the early 90's. Many outdoor stores carry their own brands of next-to-the-skin, first layer garments that are excellent also. Smartwool brand first layers are fairly new to the market in the last few years and we have not yet tried them. One disadvantage of the synthetic garments is they tend not to be very comfortable indoors, whereas the Smartwool articles might work better in this regard. Apparently many are made from Merino wool and should be very soft. Comments would be appreciated from readers who have used both products.
There are generally three weights for these particular layers for the varying outdoor temperatures, and we've sometimes layered all three in particularly cold weather. Topped by a lightweight, waterproof shell jacket and hood, we've never been uncomfortable and can peel layers as the need dictates. Seldom do we wear the long underwear bottoms under our hiking pants, but they're always in our backpacks, just in case. Some will wear the "lowers" with shorts for winter and spring hiking. We wore that combination for a number of years with great comfort.
The "uppers" as they are called, are something I wear year-around, as a first layer in winter and as an outerwear top during the summer. Winter favorites are long sleeves with mock turtle necks and a neck zipper that allows for great micro heat management. During the summer, we wear short sleeve variations that are available in various colors. Long underwear historically was available in only one dowdy color, a loathsome shade of oatmeal, but now a number of good colors are to be found.
With a synthetic pull-over for colder weather and a breathable fleece third layer (expedition weight) and a light-weight shell jacket with a hood, we stay dry and comfortable in most of the moderate temperatures in the Northwest.
Never would be recommend denim jeans or other heavy cotton pants. Once wet, for whatever reason, they won't dry out and you'll have a very cold garment to hike in.
PANTS & SHORTS should be made from breathable material also. They need to be light weight, dry quickly and not restrict movement. Year around, we use the 100% nylon hiking pants either with or without the convertible-to-shorts feature. For pure function, it's hard to beat the zip-off legs that accommodate both cold mornings and hot afternoon without changing clothes. We like the nylon material treated with Teflon to avoid permanent but and vegetation stains.
Ventilated and breathable long-sleeve SHIRTS are great to avoid sunburn and double as an insect deterrent.
HIKING or TREKKING POLES have become our mainstay in the last few years. Previously we had both considered them to be sissy sticks. Al had been convinced that with his steady treads and unerring balance, a falls was completely out of the realm of possibility for him. Not until his feel became ensnared in trail-crowding bear grass and he landed flat on his macho, did he reconsider his invincibility.
I had used just one pole for quite awhile, being a little less sure of my own steps after slipping off a wet rock some time before. Using just one pole, however, eventually produced an imbalance in the symmetry of my gait, resulting in some discomfort. The pain disappeared when I converted to two poles. They're like having four-wheel drive and have kept us from disappearing off the trail into the bushes, or worse, a good number of times.
Some kind of SEATING material is needed to keep your backside off the ground. There are simple foam sitting pads available inexpensively, inflatable cushions and even small tripod seats that weight very little. We prefer the tripod seats, particularly when ticks are an item.
A personalized CHECKLIST - make this a priority. There is nothing more irritating than arriving at a trailhead to discover some item of clothing or equipment has been left at home. We rationalize that an airplane pilot would not just grab a few things, jump in the plane and simply take off. Although we don't worry much about our plane crashing on a trail, the result could be similar should an injury occur and we lack the essentials. Checking the list before heading out the door is security.
Even essential items like water and sunglasses go on our list - sometimes it's the seemingly obvious ones that don't make it to the trailhead.
Next blog - Guide books, maps and ticks
The following list is not to be construed as a complete list of all items a hiker may every need under all circumstances, but contains some basics for typical day hikes, AND a narrative follows the list with explanations and details:
- BACKPACK (Technical)
- HYDRATION SYSTEM
- HIKING BOOTS
- HIKING SOCKS (specifically for hiking)
- HIKING PANTS & SHORTS (breathable)
- LAYERED TOPS FOR WINTER AND SUMMER (Breathable)
- LONG SLEEVED SHIRT (Ventilated - sun and insect protection)
- WATERPROOF SHELL JACKET W/HOOD (breathable
- RAIN PANTS (Waterproof & breathable with FULL side-leg zips)
- HATS for winter and summer
- GLOVES
- GAITERS (Optional, but valuable)
- HIKING/TREKKING POLES
- SO-CALLED "TEN ESSENTIALS" (Listed separately)
- PERSONALIZED CHECKLIST
We've each probably had a dozen or so BACKPACKS over the years. There seems to be a constant evolution of lighter weight fabrics, more efficient space management and innovative designs in backpacks, making new ones pretty irresistible. For year-around hiking, we prefer two different packs and use only those which are adaptable to an internal HYDRATION SYSTEM, a removable bladder fitting inside the pack. Our summer packs are smaller, compact and lighter weight than our larger winter packs which require additional capacity for heavier clothing and other cold-weather items.
There are an increasing number of smaller, technical day packs designed for women that have higher chest straps and shorter torsos. It's definitely something to consider, particularly for women with petite frames. Torso adjustments only go so far.
For those of a serious technical persuasion, specifications on all aspects of backpacks can be found online or in manufacturer's specification handouts available at many outdoor stores that list weights, dimensions, capacities and other useful information.
Personally, I like an internal frame pack that distributes the weight onto the hips, off the shoulders and eliminates uncomfortable pokes from items being carried. The downside is additional weight for the frame, but the comfort is great. Al does just fine with and prefer the lighter weight but firmly padded backs without the rigid frame. He is evidently a better "packer" than I am, since I've rarely heard him complain about being poked.
So much comfort in hiking or lack thereof is due to the fit of a pack, that we highly recommend conferring with an expert at an outdoor store. Ask for a torso measurement so you can match that length to the pack's specifications, and make note of the dimension for future reference. A pack with a torso length that's too long can create severe dysfunction and discomfort.
When a decision has been made on a specific backpack, take it home and pack it with everything you expect to carry, making sure the capacity is sufficient before heading out on the trails.
The so-called "ten essentials" have evolved into a few more items with the advent of the cell phone for emergency use, which is a "must have". Be sure it is fully charged. Again, the following list does not attempt to cover every item a hiker may ever need, but is basic:
- CELL PHONE (fully charged)
- WHISTLE
- EXTRA FOOD & CLOTHING
- SUN PROTECTION
- MAP
- COMPASS
- FLASHLIGHT OR HEADLAMP
- WATERPROOF MATCHES
- FIRE STARTER (candles are one source)
- POCKET KNIFE
- SPACE BLANKET (Our addition)
- EXTRA WATER
- INSECT REPELLENT
Although the lists sound extensive, it's surprising how light weight all of these items can be if you buy with weight as a focus and limit quantities or volumes to that which is needed for a few hikes - not for the balance of your natural life.
For some unknown reason, both Al and I carried far too much weight in our packs until the last few years when we finally decided it wasn't necessary to carry "forty-nine" essentials. Closer to "ten" was a much better number and quite adequate for our needs.
Now, we've reduced weight even further by changing HOW we pack.
Simple ways to lose backpack weight:
- Buy a small, shrill-tones PLASTIC whistle (outdoor store) instead of the heavier metal one.
- Carry only the amount of sun protection, insect repellent and other products needed for one
or two hikes, rather than whole containers.
- Outdoor stores carry tiny plastic, screw-top bottles that can be easily filled with a few days'
supply.
- LED flashlights are lightweight. Headlamps are especially nice.
- Replace original packet containing first aid kit items and replace with small plastic zip-lock bag.
Think about each items you intend to pack and how to lighten the load.
A lightweight umbrella has always been part of our rainy day gear, and Al uses one to lunch under a hot sun. After terrifying a trails horse with an open black umbrella one day, we decided it probably would be good defense against wild animals as well, with the intent to appear as large and formidable as possible.
HATS for sun protection should be of very light-weight material, have a chin strap and allow for maximum ventilation in the crown. Don't consider a wide brim that will catch in the wind. The hat will spend a good part of its life inside the backpack, so its construction needs to be flexible.
BOOTS are critical and although I've had almost no problems with fit or comfort, Al has had more than his share. One of the biggest frustrations for his is that boot manufacturers discontinue styles that fit perfectly and then replace them with ones that don't. So, every time he needs to replace boots, it's a major effort to find those that work. Complicating matters is that feet also seem to "spread out" after years of hiking and need an even wider toe box and possibly a bigger boot size, too.
We prefer waterproof hiking boots for the rainy weather in Oregon. Occasionally slogging through wet marshes or fording a small stream is inevitable on many hikes. Outdoor stores usually have knowledgeable personnel to help with the fit and make recommendations. There are slanted ramps designed specifically to determine whether your toes will hit the front of a particular boot when you're going down hill. Otherwise, they should be comfortably snug, not tight, and provide toe "wiggle" room.
GAITERS are indispensable, from our point of view, for keeping the trail debris out of the boots when wearing shorts. Our pack for the summer months are the short gaiters that just cover boots and socks. We sometimes wear knee-high gaiters during the winter if the trail is muddy or we will be walking through wet vegetation. Gaiters will keep the upper part of your boots from becoming caked with mud and protect pant legs from water.
Hiking SOCKS warrant special consideration. My personal preference is for Thorlo "coolmax" for hot weather and washable "smart wool" for cooler weather. Both these socks are also available specifically in women's sizes. Al prefers the softness of a heavy weight merino wool sock for winter and the same "coolmax" for summer. There is an appreciable difference in foot temperature using the "coolmax". However, hiking socks are an individual preference and a large variety exists from which to choose.
CLOTHING is critical to comfortable hiking and "layering" is essential. It's like "location" in real estate. The big "no" is cotton anything, from our perspective. Once cotton gets wet from perspiration or for whatever reason, it stays wet, plus it can be quite hot during a workout in warm weather. What works is what breathes and wicks moisture from your skin to the outside of the garment where it can evaporate, drying quickly. Outdoor personnel can direct you to the breathable clothing - don't consider anything else.
What has worked extremely well in basic layering for us is Patagonia's Capilene apparel, a synthetic fabric. These garments seem to last forever. We still have original pieces purchase in the early 90's. Many outdoor stores carry their own brands of next-to-the-skin, first layer garments that are excellent also. Smartwool brand first layers are fairly new to the market in the last few years and we have not yet tried them. One disadvantage of the synthetic garments is they tend not to be very comfortable indoors, whereas the Smartwool articles might work better in this regard. Apparently many are made from Merino wool and should be very soft. Comments would be appreciated from readers who have used both products.
There are generally three weights for these particular layers for the varying outdoor temperatures, and we've sometimes layered all three in particularly cold weather. Topped by a lightweight, waterproof shell jacket and hood, we've never been uncomfortable and can peel layers as the need dictates. Seldom do we wear the long underwear bottoms under our hiking pants, but they're always in our backpacks, just in case. Some will wear the "lowers" with shorts for winter and spring hiking. We wore that combination for a number of years with great comfort.
The "uppers" as they are called, are something I wear year-around, as a first layer in winter and as an outerwear top during the summer. Winter favorites are long sleeves with mock turtle necks and a neck zipper that allows for great micro heat management. During the summer, we wear short sleeve variations that are available in various colors. Long underwear historically was available in only one dowdy color, a loathsome shade of oatmeal, but now a number of good colors are to be found.
With a synthetic pull-over for colder weather and a breathable fleece third layer (expedition weight) and a light-weight shell jacket with a hood, we stay dry and comfortable in most of the moderate temperatures in the Northwest.
Never would be recommend denim jeans or other heavy cotton pants. Once wet, for whatever reason, they won't dry out and you'll have a very cold garment to hike in.
PANTS & SHORTS should be made from breathable material also. They need to be light weight, dry quickly and not restrict movement. Year around, we use the 100% nylon hiking pants either with or without the convertible-to-shorts feature. For pure function, it's hard to beat the zip-off legs that accommodate both cold mornings and hot afternoon without changing clothes. We like the nylon material treated with Teflon to avoid permanent but and vegetation stains.
Ventilated and breathable long-sleeve SHIRTS are great to avoid sunburn and double as an insect deterrent.
HIKING or TREKKING POLES have become our mainstay in the last few years. Previously we had both considered them to be sissy sticks. Al had been convinced that with his steady treads and unerring balance, a falls was completely out of the realm of possibility for him. Not until his feel became ensnared in trail-crowding bear grass and he landed flat on his macho, did he reconsider his invincibility.
I had used just one pole for quite awhile, being a little less sure of my own steps after slipping off a wet rock some time before. Using just one pole, however, eventually produced an imbalance in the symmetry of my gait, resulting in some discomfort. The pain disappeared when I converted to two poles. They're like having four-wheel drive and have kept us from disappearing off the trail into the bushes, or worse, a good number of times.
Some kind of SEATING material is needed to keep your backside off the ground. There are simple foam sitting pads available inexpensively, inflatable cushions and even small tripod seats that weight very little. We prefer the tripod seats, particularly when ticks are an item.
A personalized CHECKLIST - make this a priority. There is nothing more irritating than arriving at a trailhead to discover some item of clothing or equipment has been left at home. We rationalize that an airplane pilot would not just grab a few things, jump in the plane and simply take off. Although we don't worry much about our plane crashing on a trail, the result could be similar should an injury occur and we lack the essentials. Checking the list before heading out the door is security.
Even essential items like water and sunglasses go on our list - sometimes it's the seemingly obvious ones that don't make it to the trailhead.
Next blog - Guide books, maps and ticks
All written materials and photographs are copywrited and may not be used for any purpose without author's written permission.
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
GETTING STARTED - PART I
Look for Getting Started - Part II - Gear, Equipment & Clothing
Like many people, we began hiking with groups and only later gained sufficient confidence and trail knowledge to venture out by ourselves. We owe a huge debt of gratitude to group hiking and, in our case, specifically to the Mazamas hike leaders whose competence, dedication, encouragement and camaraderie made possible the active lifestyle we maintain to this day.
Venturing into solo (couple) hiking was and continues to be very rewarding, even though we continue to opt for the group experiences every now and then. Without the group distractions, it is possible to focus on the environment and the total immersion into nature with all its sights and sounds. Here is where we find our grounding tranquility in becoming part of the landscape. After a day on the trails, we often return home with a soft afterglow of the day's beauty still reverberating in our senses.
At times we feel a definite need for the social experience of a group hike, and indeed these outings can be extremely enjoyable. There are a number of people we've hiked with in the groups for many years in the past and it's always fun to visit with them again and extend that continuity of time.
Many group organizations offer not only day hikes, but longer excursions in numerous prime wilderness areas in the United States and throughout the world. Some involve camping and others offer lodging, but costs are usually a great deal less than with professional tour operators as there is so much volunteer involvement.
Frequently, clubs maintain local mountain lodges available to members and some offer a tremendous variety of social events, including kayaking, canoeing, snowshoeing, rock climbing, cross-country skiing, dinners & dancing, etc. For those so inclined, a group association can be a veritable feast of fun.
Selecting compatible groups is, of course, important. Although hiking organizations are typically composed of mixed ages and genders, some appear to be predominantly younger people while others are older. Occasionally, a group will define itself as a senior club. One such group which recently published in a Gresham, Oregon, newspaper indicates the following contact information: Gene and Ruthie Newcomer - email: eugeneis@comcast.net. The obvious concern in choosing a group or specific hike is pace and degree of difficulty.
Unless your hiking interests are limited to socializing, it's well to inquire about the level of interaction that is typical for a particular organization. Are they pretty serious hikers who enjoy a quiet wilderness experience that allows for reflection or is the group generally very social and pretty noisy? Once having said that, however, every hike comes down to who participates on a given day. In our minds, though, there are definite trends and it's well to make an inquiry, for whatever it's worth. That's the best you can do.
Organized groups names and their contact information is now listed individually on the web (as previously mentioned in an earlier blgo) and with some consolidation at: www.portlandhikers.com, the latter being a good starting point for the local organizations in and around Portland.
In addition, many individual communities and cities have organized recreation programs that include hiking, such as Portland Parks & Recreation. Check with your local municipalities. Conservation groups such as Nature Conservancy, the Native Plant Society and "Friends" associations such as Friends of the Gorge and Friends of Tryon Creek Park also offer hikes and guided tours. As you can readily see, there is no difficulty in locating group opportunities.
Next time: Getting Started - Part II - Gear, equipment & clothing
Like many people, we began hiking with groups and only later gained sufficient confidence and trail knowledge to venture out by ourselves. We owe a huge debt of gratitude to group hiking and, in our case, specifically to the Mazamas hike leaders whose competence, dedication, encouragement and camaraderie made possible the active lifestyle we maintain to this day.
Venturing into solo (couple) hiking was and continues to be very rewarding, even though we continue to opt for the group experiences every now and then. Without the group distractions, it is possible to focus on the environment and the total immersion into nature with all its sights and sounds. Here is where we find our grounding tranquility in becoming part of the landscape. After a day on the trails, we often return home with a soft afterglow of the day's beauty still reverberating in our senses.
At times we feel a definite need for the social experience of a group hike, and indeed these outings can be extremely enjoyable. There are a number of people we've hiked with in the groups for many years in the past and it's always fun to visit with them again and extend that continuity of time.
Many group organizations offer not only day hikes, but longer excursions in numerous prime wilderness areas in the United States and throughout the world. Some involve camping and others offer lodging, but costs are usually a great deal less than with professional tour operators as there is so much volunteer involvement.
Frequently, clubs maintain local mountain lodges available to members and some offer a tremendous variety of social events, including kayaking, canoeing, snowshoeing, rock climbing, cross-country skiing, dinners & dancing, etc. For those so inclined, a group association can be a veritable feast of fun.
Selecting compatible groups is, of course, important. Although hiking organizations are typically composed of mixed ages and genders, some appear to be predominantly younger people while others are older. Occasionally, a group will define itself as a senior club. One such group which recently published in a Gresham, Oregon, newspaper indicates the following contact information: Gene and Ruthie Newcomer - email: eugeneis@comcast.net. The obvious concern in choosing a group or specific hike is pace and degree of difficulty.
Unless your hiking interests are limited to socializing, it's well to inquire about the level of interaction that is typical for a particular organization. Are they pretty serious hikers who enjoy a quiet wilderness experience that allows for reflection or is the group generally very social and pretty noisy? Once having said that, however, every hike comes down to who participates on a given day. In our minds, though, there are definite trends and it's well to make an inquiry, for whatever it's worth. That's the best you can do.
Organized groups names and their contact information is now listed individually on the web (as previously mentioned in an earlier blgo) and with some consolidation at: www.portlandhikers.com, the latter being a good starting point for the local organizations in and around Portland.
In addition, many individual communities and cities have organized recreation programs that include hiking, such as Portland Parks & Recreation. Check with your local municipalities. Conservation groups such as Nature Conservancy, the Native Plant Society and "Friends" associations such as Friends of the Gorge and Friends of Tryon Creek Park also offer hikes and guided tours. As you can readily see, there is no difficulty in locating group opportunities.
Next time: Getting Started - Part II - Gear, equipment & clothing
Monday, March 12, 2007
READER QUESTION
A reader has asked whether there are groups for beginning hikers.
Although we're not aware of groups specifically for beginners, many organizations have easy street rambles and hikes as part of their general program. For starters, two clubs in Portland which offer multi-level activities are: Mazamas (mazamas.org) and Trailsclub (trailsclub.org). At their respective websites, you will find street rambles for most ability levels and "A" hikes for the least elevation gain and mileage. Be sure to check the descriptions of each hike or ramble for degree of difficulty to ensure your comfort. It goes without saying, of course, that your personal physician should always be consulted prior to beginning a new exercise.
We just discovered a website, portlandhikers.com, that lists numerous clubs in the Portland/Salem/Vancouver areas which have scheduled hikes for the current week. For a monthly schedule, you still need to consult the individual websites.
A beautiful feature about most of these hikes is that you can simply "show up" at the designated meeting place. Clubs normally charge a small fee (usually $3 to $5). Car-pooling and shared mileage costs are encouraged, but don't automatically assume a ride will be available. Also, note that the time shown on the schedule is typically the departure time, not arrival.
A "Getting Started" blog is forthcoming with basic tips on clothing and equipment that works for us.
Happy trails to you!
Although we're not aware of groups specifically for beginners, many organizations have easy street rambles and hikes as part of their general program. For starters, two clubs in Portland which offer multi-level activities are: Mazamas (mazamas.org) and Trailsclub (trailsclub.org). At their respective websites, you will find street rambles for most ability levels and "A" hikes for the least elevation gain and mileage. Be sure to check the descriptions of each hike or ramble for degree of difficulty to ensure your comfort. It goes without saying, of course, that your personal physician should always be consulted prior to beginning a new exercise.
We just discovered a website, portlandhikers.com, that lists numerous clubs in the Portland/Salem/Vancouver areas which have scheduled hikes for the current week. For a monthly schedule, you still need to consult the individual websites.
A beautiful feature about most of these hikes is that you can simply "show up" at the designated meeting place. Clubs normally charge a small fee (usually $3 to $5). Car-pooling and shared mileage costs are encouraged, but don't automatically assume a ride will be available. Also, note that the time shown on the schedule is typically the departure time, not arrival.
A "Getting Started" blog is forthcoming with basic tips on clothing and equipment that works for us.
Happy trails to you!
Saturday, March 10, 2007
INTRODUCTION & A BIT OF HISTORY
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This blog is written primarily for the older outdoor enthusiasts who have just started hiking or would like to begin, but hopefully will be enjoyed by all who love the special experiences one finds only on wilderness trails.
There is no intent to imply that we are experts, and our "tips" for clothing and equipment in future blogs simply represent our personal opinions on what "works" for us.
Our hiking often includes birdwatching (a passion), viewing wildflowers, observing wildlife, and landscape photography, in addition to the visual splendors encountered at every turn.
Although it's not uncommon to see older hikers on the trails, we're definitely in the minority. We've enjoyed the company of a few hikers in their 80's and, indeed, there are a number in their 70's who still lead group hikes for clubs in the Portland area.
It might be said these hiking oldsters have maintained their physical strength and health because they do hike. It's difficult for us to imagine another physical activity that affords such enjoyment and healthful benefits.
A BIT OF HISTORY
Neither Al nor I were "always" hikers. Originally, Al lived in parts of New York, Connecticut and Michigan where mountains were just high places on a flat plain. It wasn't until 1979 while driving with his brother through the Mt. Hood winter wilderness to Bend, Oregon, that he "knew this was where he had to live". He had that "sense of coming home to a new place". It wasn't however, until 1989 at age 55 that he moved to Oregon and began hiking.
As an athletic runner for 20 years in the Mid-west, which continued with his move to Oregon, it was an easy switch for him to become a serious hiker. His first hike was with the Mazamas hiking group to Table Mountain the the Columbia River gorge which, at that time, was a nine mile roundtrip,with 3500 feet elevation gain. Now, at age 72, he still can't be kept out of the mountains or off the trails.
"Not only is hiking as physically rewarding as running, but no where before in my life had I been so completely fulfilled in all my senses as "working out" in the forests. All the wonderful infusion of my senses in the wilderness seems even richer as I continue to hike through the years.
As a native Oregonian, raised among the towering evergreens an seemingly endless horizons of snow-glazed mountains, my call-to-the-wilds came quite naturally, although hiking was not a part of life until age 50.
After a bout with a physically debilitating health issue, I started from scratch walking around a local school athletic field, then began street jogging and, finally, to Forest Park, an urban showcase of 30 forested miles for runners, hikers and malingering strollers, all within the city limits of Portland. Although most of the trails are fairly flat, it's possible to get up to 1000 feet elevation gain by combining it with a secondary trails system that affords spectacular view of the city and surrounding volcanoes. Whoa!
Diligently, I walked the trails building strength and endurance until it became possible to join a group hike and begin the most rewarding adventures of a new life.
Al and I met on a group hike to Cast Lake on the slopes of Mt. Hood in 1993, and we now have over 600 hikes logged in our journal.
We both have a fascination with the beauty, magnificence and total perfection of natural areas that are almost in our backyard and yet a complete world away. Most of our trailheads are well within a two hour drive of Portland and many an hour or less. The serenity, solitude and total experience of being part of the natural landscape is quite overwhelming at times. We laugh about the level of endorphin activity that must be present after trekking four to six hours. It is evident to us, however, that nothing else we do in lift gives this kind of life; emotionally soothing and spiritually connected to our surroundings.
Next blog: "What's Out There"
There is no intent to imply that we are experts, and our "tips" for clothing and equipment in future blogs simply represent our personal opinions on what "works" for us.
Our hiking often includes birdwatching (a passion), viewing wildflowers, observing wildlife, and landscape photography, in addition to the visual splendors encountered at every turn.
Although it's not uncommon to see older hikers on the trails, we're definitely in the minority. We've enjoyed the company of a few hikers in their 80's and, indeed, there are a number in their 70's who still lead group hikes for clubs in the Portland area.
It might be said these hiking oldsters have maintained their physical strength and health because they do hike. It's difficult for us to imagine another physical activity that affords such enjoyment and healthful benefits.
A BIT OF HISTORY
Neither Al nor I were "always" hikers. Originally, Al lived in parts of New York, Connecticut and Michigan where mountains were just high places on a flat plain. It wasn't until 1979 while driving with his brother through the Mt. Hood winter wilderness to Bend, Oregon, that he "knew this was where he had to live". He had that "sense of coming home to a new place". It wasn't however, until 1989 at age 55 that he moved to Oregon and began hiking.
As an athletic runner for 20 years in the Mid-west, which continued with his move to Oregon, it was an easy switch for him to become a serious hiker. His first hike was with the Mazamas hiking group to Table Mountain the the Columbia River gorge which, at that time, was a nine mile roundtrip,with 3500 feet elevation gain. Now, at age 72, he still can't be kept out of the mountains or off the trails.
"Not only is hiking as physically rewarding as running, but no where before in my life had I been so completely fulfilled in all my senses as "working out" in the forests. All the wonderful infusion of my senses in the wilderness seems even richer as I continue to hike through the years.
As a native Oregonian, raised among the towering evergreens an seemingly endless horizons of snow-glazed mountains, my call-to-the-wilds came quite naturally, although hiking was not a part of life until age 50.
After a bout with a physically debilitating health issue, I started from scratch walking around a local school athletic field, then began street jogging and, finally, to Forest Park, an urban showcase of 30 forested miles for runners, hikers and malingering strollers, all within the city limits of Portland. Although most of the trails are fairly flat, it's possible to get up to 1000 feet elevation gain by combining it with a secondary trails system that affords spectacular view of the city and surrounding volcanoes. Whoa!
Diligently, I walked the trails building strength and endurance until it became possible to join a group hike and begin the most rewarding adventures of a new life.
Al and I met on a group hike to Cast Lake on the slopes of Mt. Hood in 1993, and we now have over 600 hikes logged in our journal.
We both have a fascination with the beauty, magnificence and total perfection of natural areas that are almost in our backyard and yet a complete world away. Most of our trailheads are well within a two hour drive of Portland and many an hour or less. The serenity, solitude and total experience of being part of the natural landscape is quite overwhelming at times. We laugh about the level of endorphin activity that must be present after trekking four to six hours. It is evident to us, however, that nothing else we do in lift gives this kind of life; emotionally soothing and spiritually connected to our surroundings.
Next blog: "What's Out There"
Monday, February 12, 2007
CATHERINE CREEK - COLUMBIA RIV. GORGE
Catherine Creek is a special kind of magic that quiets inner spaces with its "western movie" landscapes and the undisturbed stillness of a thousand years.
Part of the rarity is due to its location in the gorge along the Columbia River, riding the cusp between the temperate area on the west side of the Cascade Mountains and the arid east side desert.
Parking in the gravel pullout at the trailhead for the first time a number of years ago, we wondered what all the fuss was about since we had heard continually how unusually beautiful it was, it's name uttered almost in reverence. From our parked car, we could see a long way in all directions and clear to the top of the highest hill, but it appeared to contain not much more than a lot of uninteresting open space. So what was everyone talking about?
There were seemingly many deterrents to hiking in this area in the first place, home of rattlesnakes (have never seen one), ticks and poison oak, which would require some compelling reasons for hiking here at all. Feeling a bit let down and apprehensive about the snakes and ticks, we headed off on the eastern trail and were rewarded with an unbelievably beautiful experience.
Some odd phenomenon is present in these transitional, semi-desert areas that unexpectedly absorbs your mind and senses. Within a few minutes on the trail, the car was out of view and we headed down a slight grade above Catherine Creek itself.
First of note were the trees. No familiar firs or hemlocks here, but an abundance of oak, pine and bushes lined the creek and dotted the ridges as single spines or in small clusters. Now, suddenly, there were volcanic rock deposits, basalt cliffs and canyons invisible from the parking area. No longer was the topography homogenized and barren, but intricately defined by ancient geological formations, including a natural arch bridge.
The eastern trail crosses Catherine Creek and begins a gentle uphill climb to what is left of an old picturesque corral, part of a homestead plot that includes a decaying cabin. A few years ago the cabin roof collapsed and there has been no effort to reconstruct the aging relic of yesteryear. The echoes of time still reverberate with sounds of whinnying horses moving about in the shaded corral, and the sight of furling chimney smoke rising from the cabin.
Continuing up the incline we found nesting western bluebirds and a plethora of unusual late spring birds calling to mates and defending territories. Many calls were unfamiliar and there was difficulty in locating the music makers hidden among the thick deciduous leaves. We were delighted to see our first Lewis' Woodpecker here and have found them quite easily each time we have visited. A strikingly colored Oriole has been seen many times, along with the rather ubiquitous but nonetheless wonderful Meadowlark whose melodious songs are heard throughout the hike.
Hawks catch the rising thermals and soar high above the canyons with playful interactions."Taloning" has been witnessed several times where two hawks touch talons while somersaulting through the air. An inspiring sight.
At a certain elevation level, panoramic gorge views emerge to the east, west and south. Mt Hood is ever present and spectacular, splayed against the blue sky like a basking white island.
Wildflowers are perhaps the biggest attraction at Catherine Creek, starting in February and running through July. Aficionados arrive singly and in groups all through the season to view the splendid varieties of unusual and colorful wildflowers, some of which are endemic. Numbers of species grow no where else in the entire world. It's a wonderfully absorbing and delightful activity to see what is new each visit or to come for a specific flower, which many do. We personally know of one couple who return to Catherine Creek every two weeks during the blooming period to enjoy the entire spectrum of flowers. A Columbia River wildflower identification book is essential.
A second trail on the west side is equally interesting and beautiful, leading to a ridge overlooking Rowland Lake and climbing to the highest point in a grove of conifer trees. Making an east/west loop, we very unexpectedly came upon a small group of wild turkeys one day. A very exciting event.
ELEVATION / MILEAGE
Elevation from 100 to approximately 1200' with hiking mileage from zero to 7-8 miles.
LOCATION
I-84 east from Portland to Hood River - cross the Hood River (toll) Bridge to the Washington side of the river and turn east on Highway 14. Drive approximately 5.8 miles and turn left onto Road #1230 around Rowland Lake. Follow this road around the lake and up a hill for less than a mile to the turnout parking sign for Catherine Creek on the north side.
Part of the rarity is due to its location in the gorge along the Columbia River, riding the cusp between the temperate area on the west side of the Cascade Mountains and the arid east side desert.
Parking in the gravel pullout at the trailhead for the first time a number of years ago, we wondered what all the fuss was about since we had heard continually how unusually beautiful it was, it's name uttered almost in reverence. From our parked car, we could see a long way in all directions and clear to the top of the highest hill, but it appeared to contain not much more than a lot of uninteresting open space. So what was everyone talking about?
There were seemingly many deterrents to hiking in this area in the first place, home of rattlesnakes (have never seen one), ticks and poison oak, which would require some compelling reasons for hiking here at all. Feeling a bit let down and apprehensive about the snakes and ticks, we headed off on the eastern trail and were rewarded with an unbelievably beautiful experience.
Some odd phenomenon is present in these transitional, semi-desert areas that unexpectedly absorbs your mind and senses. Within a few minutes on the trail, the car was out of view and we headed down a slight grade above Catherine Creek itself.
First of note were the trees. No familiar firs or hemlocks here, but an abundance of oak, pine and bushes lined the creek and dotted the ridges as single spines or in small clusters. Now, suddenly, there were volcanic rock deposits, basalt cliffs and canyons invisible from the parking area. No longer was the topography homogenized and barren, but intricately defined by ancient geological formations, including a natural arch bridge.
The eastern trail crosses Catherine Creek and begins a gentle uphill climb to what is left of an old picturesque corral, part of a homestead plot that includes a decaying cabin. A few years ago the cabin roof collapsed and there has been no effort to reconstruct the aging relic of yesteryear. The echoes of time still reverberate with sounds of whinnying horses moving about in the shaded corral, and the sight of furling chimney smoke rising from the cabin.
Continuing up the incline we found nesting western bluebirds and a plethora of unusual late spring birds calling to mates and defending territories. Many calls were unfamiliar and there was difficulty in locating the music makers hidden among the thick deciduous leaves. We were delighted to see our first Lewis' Woodpecker here and have found them quite easily each time we have visited. A strikingly colored Oriole has been seen many times, along with the rather ubiquitous but nonetheless wonderful Meadowlark whose melodious songs are heard throughout the hike.
Hawks catch the rising thermals and soar high above the canyons with playful interactions."Taloning" has been witnessed several times where two hawks touch talons while somersaulting through the air. An inspiring sight.
At a certain elevation level, panoramic gorge views emerge to the east, west and south. Mt Hood is ever present and spectacular, splayed against the blue sky like a basking white island.
Wildflowers are perhaps the biggest attraction at Catherine Creek, starting in February and running through July. Aficionados arrive singly and in groups all through the season to view the splendid varieties of unusual and colorful wildflowers, some of which are endemic. Numbers of species grow no where else in the entire world. It's a wonderfully absorbing and delightful activity to see what is new each visit or to come for a specific flower, which many do. We personally know of one couple who return to Catherine Creek every two weeks during the blooming period to enjoy the entire spectrum of flowers. A Columbia River wildflower identification book is essential.
A second trail on the west side is equally interesting and beautiful, leading to a ridge overlooking Rowland Lake and climbing to the highest point in a grove of conifer trees. Making an east/west loop, we very unexpectedly came upon a small group of wild turkeys one day. A very exciting event.
ELEVATION / MILEAGE
Elevation from 100 to approximately 1200' with hiking mileage from zero to 7-8 miles.
LOCATION
I-84 east from Portland to Hood River - cross the Hood River (toll) Bridge to the Washington side of the river and turn east on Highway 14. Drive approximately 5.8 miles and turn left onto Road #1230 around Rowland Lake. Follow this road around the lake and up a hill for less than a mile to the turnout parking sign for Catherine Creek on the north side.
LANDSCAPES
Roaming the landscapes of the Pacific Northwest, one is seldom without mountainous views and snow-capped peaks that loom at horizon's edge - sirens which seductively call to you at work, "come out and play".
From our homeland in Portland, Oregon, fortune has gifted five such natural wonders as backdrops, including our beloved Mt. Hood, icon of Oregon, and the now famous volcano, Washington's Mt. St. Helens, which emits periodic vaporous eruptions against a clear blue sky. Mt. Adams, also just across the Columbia River in Washington State is a wild sort, untamed by resort destinations or human habitation. Part of the mountain is still owned by Native Indian Tribes. Elusive, but visible at its choosing is Mt. Rainier, a colossal prominence of white magic. From higher elevations in the city, Mt. Jefferson beckons to all who covet the solitude of true wilderness.
Within a short drive from town, The Columbia River Gorge cuts a mighty swath through the Cascade Mountains at sea-level from east to west. In its wake, the river leaves a deeply cut, magnificently sculpted gorge with towering cliffs and ridges with multitudes of waterfalls where hiking trails range from very short and easy to strenuous elevation hikes with high mileage.
In The Columbia River Gorge is an easy favorite hike that is particularly for wildflower lovers, but it also comes with an awesome view of Mt. Hood and the Columbia River - it is Catherine Creek. (See next blog)
From our homeland in Portland, Oregon, fortune has gifted five such natural wonders as backdrops, including our beloved Mt. Hood, icon of Oregon, and the now famous volcano, Washington's Mt. St. Helens, which emits periodic vaporous eruptions against a clear blue sky. Mt. Adams, also just across the Columbia River in Washington State is a wild sort, untamed by resort destinations or human habitation. Part of the mountain is still owned by Native Indian Tribes. Elusive, but visible at its choosing is Mt. Rainier, a colossal prominence of white magic. From higher elevations in the city, Mt. Jefferson beckons to all who covet the solitude of true wilderness.
Within a short drive from town, The Columbia River Gorge cuts a mighty swath through the Cascade Mountains at sea-level from east to west. In its wake, the river leaves a deeply cut, magnificently sculpted gorge with towering cliffs and ridges with multitudes of waterfalls where hiking trails range from very short and easy to strenuous elevation hikes with high mileage.
In The Columbia River Gorge is an easy favorite hike that is particularly for wildflower lovers, but it also comes with an awesome view of Mt. Hood and the Columbia River - it is Catherine Creek. (See next blog)
Saturday, February 10, 2007
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Hiking has been a way of life for my husband, Al, since 1989 and myself since 1993. In fact, we met on a Mazama hike to Cast Lake in 1993 and life has not been the same since.
Although we are now ages 72 and 65, respectively, our hikes include elevation gains up to 4000 feet - more typical are those between 2000' and 3000' - with round trip mileage ranging from six to eleven miles. During the last few years we've become fair-weather hikers with 50-60 hikes annually.
Our blog is written primarily for older outdoor enthusiasts who have just started hiking or would like to begin, but hopefully it will be enjoyed by all those who love the special experiences one finds on wilderness trails.
There is no intent to imply that we are experts, and our "tips" as they occur in this blog simply represent our personal opinions and what works for us.
Pictures included are almost three years old, but are personal favorites.
Friday, February 9, 2007
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