CATHERINE CREEK - COLUMBIA RIV. GORGE

Catherine Creek is a special kind of magic that quiets inner spaces with its "western movie" landscapes and the undisturbed stillness of a thousand years.

Part of the rarity is due to its location in the gorge along the Columbia River, riding the cusp between the temperate area on the west side of the Cascade Mountains and the arid east side desert.

Parking in the gravel pullout at the trailhead for the first time a number of years ago, we wondered what all the fuss was about since we had heard continually how unusually beautiful it was, it's name uttered almost in reverence. From our parked car, we could see a long way in all directions and clear to the top of the highest hill, but it appeared to contain not much more than a lot of uninteresting open space. So what was everyone talking about?

There were seemingly many deterrents to hiking in this area in the first place, home of rattlesnakes (have never seen one), ticks and poison oak, which would require some compelling reasons for hiking here at all. Feeling a bit let down and apprehensive about the snakes and ticks, we headed off on the eastern trail and were rewarded with an unbelievably beautiful experience.

Some odd phenomenon is present in these transitional, semi-desert areas that unexpectedly absorbs your mind and senses. Within a few minutes on the trail, the car was out of view and we headed down a slight grade above Catherine Creek itself.

First of note were the trees. No familiar firs or hemlocks here, but an abundance of oak, pine and bushes lined the creek and dotted the ridges as single spines or in small clusters. Now, suddenly, there were volcanic rock deposits, basalt cliffs and canyons invisible from the parking area. No longer was the topography homogenized and barren, but intricately defined by ancient geological formations, including a natural arch bridge.

The eastern trail crosses Catherine Creek and begins a gentle uphill climb to what is left of an old picturesque corral, part of a homestead plot that includes a decaying cabin. A few years ago the cabin roof collapsed and there has been no effort to reconstruct the aging relic of yesteryear. The echoes of time still reverberate with sounds of whinnying horses moving about in the shaded corral, and the sight of furling chimney smoke rising from the cabin.

Continuing up the incline we found nesting western bluebirds and a plethora of unusual late spring birds calling to mates and defending territories. Many calls were unfamiliar and there was difficulty in locating the music makers hidden among the thick deciduous leaves. We were delighted to see our first Lewis' Woodpecker here and have found them quite easily each time we have visited. A strikingly colored Oriole has been seen many times, along with the rather ubiquitous but nonetheless wonderful Meadowlark whose melodious songs are heard throughout the hike.

Hawks catch the rising thermals and soar high above the canyons with playful interactions."Taloning" has been witnessed several times where two hawks touch talons while somersaulting through the air. An inspiring sight.

At a certain elevation level, panoramic gorge views emerge to the east, west and south. Mt Hood is ever present and spectacular, splayed against the blue sky like a basking white island.

Wildflowers are perhaps the biggest attraction at Catherine Creek, starting in February and running through July. Aficionados arrive singly and in groups all through the season to view the splendid varieties of unusual and colorful wildflowers, some of which are endemic. Numbers of species grow no where else in the entire world. It's a wonderfully absorbing and delightful activity to see what is new each visit or to come for a specific flower, which many do. We personally know of one couple who return to Catherine Creek every two weeks during the blooming period to enjoy the entire spectrum of flowers. A Columbia River wildflower identification book is essential.

A second trail on the west side is equally interesting and beautiful, leading to a ridge overlooking Rowland Lake and climbing to the highest point in a grove of conifer trees. Making an east/west loop, we very unexpectedly came upon a small group of wild turkeys one day. A very exciting event.

ELEVATION / MILEAGE
Elevation from 100 to approximately 1200' with hiking mileage from zero to 7-8 miles.

LOCATION
I-84 east from Portland to Hood River - cross the Hood River (toll) Bridge to the Washington side of the river and turn east on Highway 14. Drive approximately 5.8 miles and turn left onto Road #1230 around Rowland Lake. Follow this road around the lake and up a hill for less than a mile to the turnout parking sign for Catherine Creek on the north side.